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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Perin Blanchard 13 Apr 09
Page Views: 5,986 total, 57/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description


70m rope required.

A long, moderate, bolted line whose character changes several times as the route ascends through varying limestone bands. Fun, occasionally tricky movement with an intimidating-looking section through the right edge of a double-roof area.

Start by climbing to the left of a short, semi-detached "pillar". Follow the initially-rightward-trending bolt line through steep, rough limestone on small edges to a ledge. From the ledge ascend along the right of a groove to the base of a somewhat overhanging section to the right of a large roof system.

Surmount the steepness and follow the natural weakness to the left and upward to the chains.

Location

Climbs through a natural weakness to the right of the large, double-roof area near the right side of Tattoine. The start is found to the left of a short (seven-foot or so) "pillar".

Follow the trail through the Galaxy Area to approximately the middle of Tattoine, then backtrack south and up to the base of the wall.

Protection

16 bolts, hangers-and-chains anchor.

70m rope required.
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.9
Amazing climb, but lots of loose rock at the top. Sent a few large rocks down and some of the ledges still need some cleaning. Definitely wear a helmet on this one. Reminded me of Hellgate Mar 20, 2016
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.9
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.9
The best 5.9 in the canyon, I don't think I stopped smiling. Sep 29, 2012
BJB
Texas
  5.9
BJB   Texas
  5.9
I had a bit of a hard time finding the start of the route, so I added a photo that shows the whole line from the bottom. Jan 6, 2012
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.9
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.9
Got a 70 m. It was worth it to do these tall climbs at Tatooine!

The first two bolts of this climb are 2-3 feet apart, and some others are pretty close. I wasn't sure about the bolt count (it really is 16 though), so I thought I would have to skimp in order for my 15 to make it. I ended up using 12, plus something for the anchors. I was able to back clean a few draws (since a lot of them were really close), and skip a couple too. This helped reduce what rope drag might be on this climb.

I skipped the first one, back cleaned #2, skipped #8, back cleaned #11 and #13 to reduce drag. Even with the couple skipped bolts I felt very well protected up the whole climb.

Kudos to this entire area, the developers, and the trail groomers: great, fun routes, with killer exposure! Jul 18, 2011
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.9
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.9
I see John Bitter did this with his 60m rope. It looks a lot taller than a few others I've done that really stretched my 60m.

I'm wondering, is it possible to do this in 2 pitches, by going to the first set of anchors for Scum and Villainy, and then to the top? Or, maybe going all the way to the top, then lowering to those anchors, pulling the rope, then lowering the rest of the way? From the topo picture it looks like this is possible, but I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this. I don't want to get in over my head. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a 70m already.... Jul 2, 2011
Blanco
Tucson, AZ
 
Blanco   Tucson, AZ
 
Outstanding route! When you come out of the corner at the top moving onto the exposed face this is what makes climbing fun. Make sure to bring plenty of draws cause this route seems to eat them up pretty quick. May 16, 2011
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
This climb is long! It has a lot of variety with stemming, booking, facing and lunging. Nice work Perin on bolt placements, cleaning and imagining. Clap clap clap! Nov 3, 2009
Lynn Stephens
Orem, Utah
 
Lynn Stephens   Orem, Utah
 
I climbed this today just before Jon. Lots of fun. Love that exposed move through the roof ledges. That foothold is about 3/4 inch deep and 3 inches long, so pretty small for such an exposed move, which makes it all the more fun! This is my idea of fun rock climbing. Sep 5, 2009
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.9
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
  5.9
Super fun route. I would recommend using a 70m rope, but if you really want to do it with a 60m rope, I can testify that it is doable. Just make sure you tie a not in the end of your rope. To get the climber all the way down, he will have to clean his draws on the way down so that the rope travels a straight line. That will barely put him on the ground. (also, that exposed foothold is still there... maybe just smaller than before) Sep 5, 2009
jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
jtwalter   Orem, UT
 
Climbed this on Saturday right before the storm rolled in. The really small but critical left foothold when going through the roof at the last bolt broke when I stepped on it. Guess I need to shed a few pounds. Aug 17, 2009
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.9
A long fun climb start to finish. Well protected route on quality, textured limestone. Worth the hike by itself. Other great routes in the area make this area a fine climbing area. May 9, 2009
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
 
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
 
Amazing climb! Coming out from the corner onto the exposed face is nerve-wracking move. I left a draw up there and went to get it 2 days later but it was gone. Has anyone grabbed a Cypher draw recently? Apr 26, 2009
Really enjoyed this one. The cruxes are quick and there are plenty of rests. The upper part looks intimidating but there are lots of good jugs/rails. So if you are just below the roofs and they are overwhelming you...just go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised.

  • **Keep an eye on the end of your rope when lowering!
Apr 22, 2009
Darren Knezek
  5.9
Darren Knezek  
  5.9
Very exciting for a 5.9 with killer exposure and a steep section that's a blast followed by a strange but fun corner ending. About as good as this grade gets in RC. Apr 19, 2009