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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,241 total, 12/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

This route is so fun that once you send it, the force will be with you, always.
It climbs a stunning face just left of the big left-facing corner and is in between the orange and blue streaks. Pull up to a ledge and clip a bolt, from there it's typically a couple of hard moves to a medium jug. It does this sort of movement throughout the route and will be an ultimate test in your sequence finding abilities.
The rock is perfect just like its neighbors and the climb ends below a huge roof. Stay tuned there will be a second pitch to this one, but hasn't been finished with bolting and cleaning.
As you're climbing it, if you can't decide to go left or right, just remember to let go and use the force.

Location

The first route to the left of the large left-facing corner. Or the third route to the right from the arch.

Protection

9 bolts and anchors.

Photos

Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11a
A fun techincal climb and onsight, although I will have to choose the darkside and downgrade it to a 5.11a since there never seemed to be a real galactic crux. If the height dependence issue gives you trouble then use your lightsaber to cut yourself some pockets, otherwise grow a midichlorian pair and climb that mofo! Probably the best climb on the whole galaxy. There is a flake about half way up that I loosened with my blaster so be careful. May 22, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Darren, I see you downrated this a letter grade.

Thunderstruck (which you once told me was a stiff .11b) and The Force are quite similar in style (crimpy and balancy); I onsighted both and, for what it's worth, I thought The Force was harder than Thunderstruck.

(Of course, the fact I onsighted them probably means they are both really only about .10b :-) May 13, 2009