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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,056 total, 10/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on May 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This line climbs a beautiful orange water streak on some of the most amazing holds I've encountered on RC limestone.

To get to the route climb, That's Not A Lightsaber or Star Destroyer.

It's not a bad idea to stick clip the first bolt as blowing the moves right off the deck will land you right on your belayer.

The climb starts off steep with small edges for the right hand and big sidepull pinches for the left.

Around the 3rd bolt the real business begins, but some might be a little pumped at this point.

The next ten feet have some very unique holds with small two-finger, half-pad edges and a two-finger "twisty" pocket. (You'll see what I mean when you get there.)

The last half of the pitch is basic big jugs, stems and using full-body climbing.

Location

This climb is the pitch that's above That's Not A Lightsaber; it's the orange water streak 75 feet off the ground to the right of the big arch.

Do get down, rappel to the anchors of That's Not A Lightsaber and then another to the ground.

You can get all the way to the ground with a 70-meter rope.

Protection

8 bolts, ring anchors at bottom and top. Some long slings for your belayer to get comfortable.

Photos

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Peter Duckett
provo,UT
Peter Duckett   provo,UT
I agree! this route in my opinion is more like an 11c/d but a very good climb. we took an 80m and double pitched to the top in 1 line, kinda spooky if your not used to having that big of a line out but very fun if you can stomach it. Jul 26, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.11c
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.11c
As you can see from my suggested rating, I think that this line is considerably harder than .11a. It's definitely harder than any of the other .11a's on this wall, and I think it's harder than The Force.

I fell off of this thing several times before finally redpointing it. I also used different beta through the crux than Darren, because his way is just too hard :-) Apr 16, 2010