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Routes in Tatooine

Force, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hyperspace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jawa Jam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leia's Leash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midichlorophobia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Millennium Falcon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phantom Menace, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scum and Villainy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaceballs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Destroyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
That's Not A Lightsaber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Is A Lightsaber! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triumphal Arch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The climbing on this one is way out there in exposure. You can do this one in two pitches or one long pitch that's definitely a lot more pumpy. Start about twenty feet to the right of Phantom Menace. It's just to the right of a small pine.

Pitch One is a killer combo of small flake-edges and pockets. A neat crux for three bolts and then plain ole' jug cruising.

Pitch Two. Climb the arete using holds on both sides. Climb past a cool monkey bar to a small ledge with scooped out holds. In the ceiling above is a killer two-finger pocket, the rest is up to you.
You barely reach the ground with one 70-meter rope.

Location

This route is about twenty feet to the right of the large left-facing corner called, The Phantom Menace. It's a few feet to the right of the pine tree.

Protection

13 quickdraws if you're doing it in two pitches or 21 quickdraws if you're doing it in one pitch.

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KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10d
Loved this route. Upper part on the arĂȘte was the crux for me. My left foot scrambling for a hold. That left hand undercling is the key on the roof section awesome! May 26, 2011
I added the first pitch to this climb today and if you do it as one long pitch it definitely goes up to four stars, at least for me. Jun 2, 2009

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