Ain't No Puppy
Avg: 1.3 from 6 votes
Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
|- V-easy 3|
|Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+|
|Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Turd Burglar V6 7A|
|Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 95 ft|
|FA:||M. Frichette & Partner (?) 1970s (?)|
|Page Views:||513 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 3, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe route was pretty good and contained some great climbing, but it also had some flakey rock and insecure moves and lichen. 1 star for now, but might clean up to two.
Approach as for 'Revocation.' From the trail, walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the right with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.
Climb up into the left corner, (5.9-) past some awkward moves- these might get more secyure if the crack becmes cleaner. Continue up to a wide section of crack in a corner (5.8) and into the great jams in the bulge above (5.9).
You will arrive at a bolt and link belay. Rap 95' to the starting ledge, or 115' (70m rope) to the ground.