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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Gillett
Page Views: 717 total · 6/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

White Shores climbs an enjoyable white slab found on the far right side of the crag. Place a few pieces of gear to get started and undercling to the left to the first bolt. There are a number of mini cruxes, but the height dependent one at the second bolt might get you thinking.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with chains....

Location

White Shores is found on the rightmost shoulder of Sweat Loaf.

Protection

A #0.5, #2, and #3 Camalot for the start...then clip bolts.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Gillett gives this 3 stars, but I'd say 2, since it's still pretty dirty. The undercling left at the start was pretty exciting. If you're tall enough, the crux at the second bolt is not the crux. You can place a #0.75/Green Camalot and a ~1/4" nut (blue HB Offset) to protect clipping the 4th bolt, which seemed placed a bit too high even for me at 6'2. I was able to stand on the base of the sketchy small try and stretch to clip. Feb 22, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Apparently it has cleaned up a bit. I'd give it 3 stars, as it was a good 1/2 rope length (maybe just over 90 feet) super solit rock, and persistent moves to give pause. Great slab overall. In fact, if I enjoyed single pitch climbing more, I'd consider giving it 4 stars.
Note: The small pine tree shown in the book topo is dead rotten and gone. Apr 3, 2009

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