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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: J.Huggins, T. Hudgel, B. Gillett, & C. Greedy all contributed parts.
Page Views: 626 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The climbing on the first pitch is difficult and cruxy on the lower half, and unabashed fun on the second half. Both are pretty safe leads.

Start down and right of the first bolt and climb a few feet to it on mellow moves, the clip and head up progressively steeper rock. Sidepull, gaston, undercling, and mantle through the crux section. Some slopers and small crips after the second clip give way to a tough semi-mantle move at the 3rd clip, and then it is rest, before casting off the ledge onto part 2. If you got the first half the second half will be no problem. Arrive at a bolted anchor with chains at 80 feet or so. The striking corner on the upper half is 10c and can be approached via a ledge scramble but is part of the single continuous pitch.

There is a second pitch I did not attempt that is also 12a, passing a single bolt and then up through a bouldery fingercrack (stoppers) and onward to second set of anchors.

The 3rd pitch One is 11d according to the book, but I did not inspect it.

Perhaps as someone climbs this, they can add the data for P2/P3.

Location

To find the start of this route, head up the hill on the south face of the rock for perhaps 60 meters pas the low point at the corner where the Rock faces Northwestwardly. 3 bolts appear low on the face, 2 below a rather large bulge, and one just above the top of the bulge (12a). 4 more appear in a shallow dihedral above a ledge above this large wave of rock.

Protection

For P1, 7 bolts, for P2 a bolt plus small cams and nuts, for P3, uncertain.

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