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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Joe Huggins and Tim Hudgel
Page Views: 627 total · 6/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This one pitch variation to "Big Dogs on the Prowl (5.12a)" climbs the enjoyable thin corner above the bolted 5.12a start. Four bolts protect this 5.10 section, which is accessed on the right by a low fifth class ledge system. This corner could be lead on gear with small cams to a #0.5 Camalot, although some of the placements might be tricky/pumpy on lead.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with chains....

Location

The variation to Big Dogs on the Prowl starts on a low fifth class ramp system to the right of the 5.12 bolted start.

Protection

A #0.75 and #1 Camalot can be placed at the end of the easy ramp....

Photos

khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
This looks like the second half of p1, Big Dogs in the Gillett guidebook. Jan 19, 2015

More About Big Dogs Variation

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