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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: M. Frichette & D. Hare (?) 1970s (?)
Page Views: 675 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A route that has some great climbing but is too broken up to be a great line overall. Still, it is worth doing. Find the upper half of the climb as decribed in the "location" text. The anchors are at the ledge above the arate and handcrack, to trace the line downward, look to the pointed flake below the roof, following a horizontal down and left to a right leaning dihedral and to the base of the corner, on a large ledge that is accessed via a 30-foot traverse from the ground/trail.

From the trail walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the [left] with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle-sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.

Climb up and right into the steep corner, getting a small cam or two and then doing 5.9 moves to reach a series of hand jams. Continue up and right under a curving overhang (5.8). You will reach a roof with a crack going out right. Hand traverse in the crack out right with gear (5.8-) or foot traverse lower without gear (5.5) to reach a broad slot below the roof mentioned in the "Location" instructions and the crack piercing it. With hands on either side, work up into a stem and moantle and climb the crack for a few moves (get good gear!) of 5.9+ until the crack becomes too awkward, then reach for incuts on the left face and make a few final moves to reach a ledge (5.8) with bolted anchors with webbing and a steel ring. The anchor was refurbished on 4/3/09.

There is a second pitch going up and left through cracks in a left-facing corner system, (5.9 at Bulge, then lower angle 5.7) and on to the top and walk off, or rap ~90' to the ground. A 60m rope reaches easily, 50m is questionable.

Location

About halfway up the South face of Sweat Loaf, there is a hanging arete 70' off the ground, capping a large roof. On the right there are a few bolts on "Black Ramp (9+)" and on the left there is a handcrack slitting the face from the roof upward, which is the upper portion of "Revocation (9+)."

Protection

A standard rack, from small to 3 inches. Long slings are useful to keep the drag down on this somewhat wondering line.

Photos

Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
I think Tony meant to say Ain't no Puppy is the wider line on the left. In any case, this is a worthy pitch (didn't do the upper pitch due to the later hour). Nov 15, 2011

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