Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 85 ft|
|FA:||M. Frichette & D. Hare (?) 1970s (?)|
|Page Views:||641 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 3, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA route that has some great climbing but is too broken up to be a great line overall. Still, it is worth doing. Find the upper half of the climb as decribed in the "location" text. The anchors are at the ledge above the arate and handcrack, to trace the line downward, look to the pointed flake below the roof, following a horizontal down and left to a right leaning dihedral and to the base of the corner, on a large ledge that is accessed via a 30-foot traverse from the ground/trail.
From the trail walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the [left] with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle-sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.
Climb up and right into the steep corner, getting a small cam or two and then doing 5.9 moves to reach a series of hand jams. Continue up and right under a curving overhang (5.8). You will reach a roof with a crack going out right. Hand traverse in the crack out right with gear (5.8-) or foot traverse lower without gear (5.5) to reach a broad slot below the roof mentioned in the "Location" instructions and the crack piercing it. With hands on either side, work up into a stem and moantle and climb the crack for a few moves (get good gear!) of 5.9+ until the crack becomes too awkward, then reach for incuts on the left face and make a few final moves to reach a ledge (5.8) with bolted anchors with webbing and a steel ring. The anchor was refurbished on 4/3/09.
There is a second pitch going up and left through cracks in a left-facing corner system, (5.9 at Bulge, then lower angle 5.7) and on to the top and walk off, or rap ~90' to the ground. A 60m rope reaches easily, 50m is questionable.