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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ross Swanson
Page Views: 666 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Oct 7, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route protected well but was spicy.

30' below the wide crack, find a left-facing corner with a small overhang on theleft. Climb the arete then crack, and trend left at the top of the wing. At the base of the chimney, find gear, then squeeze up. The second flake on right takes small nuts and cams in the back. Near top of chimney, break out on the right face, go up 20' until below an overhang, go left through cracks, and continue to top with good pro.

Location

This is up and above Sweet Loaf. After doing a route on The Sentinel, look right, West, up the hill, and spy a 30' high, chest-wide chimney.

Protection

Standard rack cams to a #4 with doubles of Camalot #4 black, 1 red, 1 set Wild Country Rocks, 1 set small TCUs, RPs, 15 shoulder-length QD slings, and biners. Face right side in when in the chimney.

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