Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 559 total · 5/month
Shared By: GummyBears on Mar 30, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Bottom section cruxy with lunge from bad left sidepull. Then awkwardness getting your feet up on the ledge. Get ready for the official crux which requires you reach high to stab a small pocket and try to clip a 3rd bolt with lack of any good feet (I skipped this bolt!) Then crank on to better holds and a 5.11 finish. Phew.

Location

To the right of Walking the Plank.

Protection

5 bolts. Fixed bolts anchor.

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HoseBeats
  5.12b
HoseBeats  
  5.12b
It sure felt hard to me. Very bouldery. The guidebook calls it a "Must Do." I disagree, I wouldn't have tried it again if I had fallen on my redpoint. Blah. Mar 31, 2009
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
I also got on this because of the guidebook's recommendation. The bottom section was fun, but the crux section wasn't enjoyable. Meh. Jun 16, 2013
Very fun movement on what are most likely manufactured pockets through the crux. Worked the beta on TR, might come back for an RP. High right foot to with rt hand in shitty pocket, left knee scum, left hand gaston, bump left to a shit pocket, throw rt to a side pull jug. Felt like ..11d/.12a to the ledge, actually crux felt significantly harder than any .12b I've ever been on Jan 24, 2016