Type: Sport
FA: Chris Hahn - 4/96
Page Views: 937 total · 7/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

Just left of the crack (Betty Cracker 5.9) this route starts easily enough but soon after the moves and holds get thin.

Vertical route with crimpy holds on that super grippy dark grey rock. It's nice.

Location

While walking in from the main trail you'll come across a large low angle boulder (sinker 5.5)just above the wash bottom. Directly in front of the boulder is a courtyard that gets early morning shade year round. Third route from the right on the south facing wall.

Protection

6 shuts plus anchor

Photos

Andrew R
Arizony
  5.10d
Andrew R   Arizony
  5.10d
The guidebook calls this route "sustained" but I found it to be anything but. The crux was short, more based upon solid technique than strength, and was followed by a nearly no-hands rest and a bunch of really positive holds to the top. Didn't really seem 11.

That said, this is a good 10/10+ with some fun moves and great holds. Dec 2, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
Andrew, I agree the crux is short but it's still probably a series of .11 moves to get past it. Small pockets and somewhat technical on vertical rock. It only takes one move of .11 to make the grade. The upper section eases but the crux still packs a punch. Jun 9, 2008
Andrew R
Arizony
  5.10d
Andrew R   Arizony
  5.10d
Maybe this route just fit my style, I dunno. To me it felt about the same as Genesis which seems like a good benchmark for 10+ at Jacks. Not that it matters too much, this is a fun route with good moves on solid rock and that's what counts. Aug 10, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
If you really want to tick a 5.11A, this is the route to do! Unlike the poster above, I found the nature of this route to be the opposite of Genesis. Genesis is pumpy, gently overhanging climbing while Mental Block Party offers almost pure vertical climbing with plenty of rests; it really shouldn't pump you out at all. I found the 5.9 one climb over to the right to be pumpier. Mar 30, 2009
Mark Mueller
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Mark Mueller   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
This route is nothing like Genesis, the only similarity would be the bolts. Mental Block Party has fun movement going left and right and left on vertical rock with rests after every move. I don't think there is a crux on this climb. Jun 10, 2013
Michael Smalley
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.10c/d
Michael Smalley   Santa Clarita, CA
  5.10c/d
Very fun route though it seems more like a 10c/10d. I don't know if I missed the crux by going right but I couldn't easily identify it. Still, it's a route with fun moves and great rests. It shouldn't pump you out to bad. Feb 10, 2018