Type: Sport
FA: Deidre Burton
Page Views: 1,565 total · 10/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

This route is great. A true 5.11a in my opinion (if you have been to jacks, you would know what I mean here.) Nice pocketed climbing over three different roofs to the chain anchor!

Protection

4 Bolts to anchors.

Photos

The crux of this climb is getting established just under the last roof (right most edge of the last roof). I found a good crimper that I cross to with my left hand with my right hand in the bucket pocket that you WILL find. A high step crank and the crimper gets you to a positive hold just around the corner. One can easily clip the bolt on the second roof and then back-track to the crack to get a shake. May 29, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
The description above to me seems a little misleading. This route has it all but doesn't really take you up and over the 3 roof systems as the bolt line skirts you off to the left until the final moves.

This route provides lots of variety including a bouldery start, pockets, cracks and liebacking of flakes. As it nears the top it gets a bit steeper and for sure the crux is moving right using what looks to be big pocket up high but don't seem to feel so good. At the lip of the final roof is a two shut anchor.

It's nice, well protected and worth a run if in the area. Oct 21, 2007
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I would like to put those touting the myth of soft Jacks ratings on a select tour. This climb would be on that tour. Oct 9, 2009
Miguel D
SLC
 
Miguel D   SLC
 
Awesome route! I'd say great route for the new 5.11 leader like myself Aug 17, 2015