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Areas in Jacks Canyon

Asylum, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Casino Cliffs 0 / 39 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
Chossmine, The 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Cracker Jack Cliffs 0 / 57 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 58
High Life Wall 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Lost World at Jacks Canyon 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Main Wall 0 / 52 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 52
Swiss Wall 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Description

Beautiful limestone, well protected sport routes with pulling on pockets and edges of mostly high quality rock. Setting is within a beautiful canyon and climbing can be had year around, chasing either the shade or the sun. For the majority of the year, the weather is beautiful (as is common of the desert southwest), with the best time of year being March through May (springtime), and September through November (fall). Floods occasionally drown some of the walls and make some of the climbs inaccessible, this varies by year.

Climbs here are, for the most part, very well protected, and range from 5.6 to 5.13. One can easily push their limits here, and do it safely. A clip stick is helpful for keeping some of the starts safer.

Getting There

First, find Winslow, AZ, east of Flagstaff on Interstate 40. From I-40, take Winslow exit #253 (North Park Drive) and go south. Heading south on North Park Drive, in about a mile you will come upon Second street, turn left (one way going east). After several blocks you will hit a traffic light, turn south here (right) onto highway 87.

Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314.

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right. There is typically a piece of webbing on the gate, use it to open the gate and please close the gate after passing through. There is an obvious sign on the right just after the gate with some climbing stickers on it. This is how you will know you have found the right place. From the gate, continue straight ahead on a good dirt road. You will see a few turn offs along the way (with one large one at about 0.4 miles), just keep straight ahead on the best looking road. Eventually, you will come upon the camping area. There is a large forest service pit toilet here. There are various trails that head from the parking area into the canyon.

Resources

Jacks Canyon Sport Climbing by Deidre Burton and Jim Steagall.

211 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jacks Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Jack Off
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
Feta
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 102
You Don't Know Jack $%^
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
Betty Cracker
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 120
Gouda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 185
Mickey Goes to Vegas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 97
Yarlsberg
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 87
Dealers Choice
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 77
Sports Book
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 114
Genesis
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Jack and the Beanstalk
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 65
Crosstown Traffic
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Bats in the Belfry
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 102
Sacrificial Lizard
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 70
Tales From the Grypt
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jack Off Cracker Jack Cliffs
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Feta Swiss Wall
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
You Don't Know Jack $%^ Cracker Jack Cliffs
 102
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Betty Cracker Cracker Jack Cliffs
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gouda Swiss Wall
 120
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mickey Goes to Vegas Casino Cliffs
 185
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Yarlsberg Swiss Wall
 97
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dealers Choice Casino Cliffs
 87
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sports Book Casino Cliffs
 77
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Genesis Main Wall
 114
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Jack and the Beanstalk Cracker Jack Cliffs
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Crosstown Traffic Cracker Jack Cliffs
 65
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bats in the Belfry Main Wall
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sacrificial Lizard Main Wall
 102
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tales From the Grypt Main Wall
 70
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jacks Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
On the directions to Jack's Canyon, the pull off for the gate is milepost 313.7 as noted on the map. But because the mileposts from Winslow are descending (starting at about 343), the directions should read:
'Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right.'

Traveling south on Hwy 87 to mile marker 313 takes you .7 miles past the turnoff.

Just had my first visit. What a great place!! Oct 10, 2006
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Because most all of the anchors at Jacks are cold shuts it's a must to use quickdraws while TRing and then have the last person rappel rather than lower with the rope threaded through the shuts. (Granted on the steeper climbs it may not be possible to rappel and clean draws but...) Jun 2, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Does anyone have beta on The Asylum? I am looking for driving directions, approach info and any sort of topo would be awesome. Oct 10, 2007
Maurice Liddy
Plymouth, NH
Maurice Liddy   Plymouth, NH
We got stuck there last week too. Do yourself a favor, park near the gate and walk in (unless you have 4wd). That's what we should have done! Dec 10, 2007
I was wondering what the camping situation is like? Also was wondering if anyone could recommend a fun route in the 12+ range.

Thanks in advance. Apr 16, 2008
Andrew R
Arizony
Andrew R   Arizony
There is plenty of camping at Jacks, lots of good-sized sites with fire pits about a 5 minute walk from the climbing. There is a pit toilet, but bring your own water and your own firewood; there aren't many trees out there to begin with and what is there has mostly been stripped clean. It can get quite cold after the sun goes down, even when the days are hot, so bring what you need to keep warm. It is very beautiful out there at night, and on some trips I think the time spent around the fire with friends, chatting and looking at the stars, was even better than the climbing.

Oh yeah, the camping is all free.

Classic 12+ routes at Jacks: Unpopular Mechanics, Trick or Tweak, Hooked on Pockets, Huecos Rancheros. Apr 16, 2008
Thanks!! Apr 21, 2008
kyber
Portland
kyber   Portland
going to jacks sometime next week, where can i pick up a guide book besides online? flagstaff? Apr 14, 2009
Andrew R
Arizony
Andrew R   Arizony
Yep kyber, they should have some at the gym in Flag, call them (928.556.9909) to make sure. Apr 15, 2009
John Hannah
Tucson
John Hannah   Tucson
HEADS UPS! This comment is spot on:

"On the directions to Jack's Canyon, the pull off for the gate is milepost 313.7 as noted on the map. But because the mileposts from Winslow are descending (starting at about 343), the directions should read:
'Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right.'

Traveling south on Hwy 87 to mile marker 313 takes you .7 miles past the turnoff."

The directions as they are given above in the description are wrong. And going down the wrong road can get you screwed, as I found out. There are other turn offs in the area they actually describe that you don't want to go down in anything but a 4x4. Apr 21, 2009
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
I found a black water bladder that was stuck in a tree branch above the tree trunk one can use while crossing over the creek to get to Casino Cliffs. It belongs to one of the two other groups climbing on March 10, 2011. Please reply to this post with contact info and I will be in touch. Mar 10, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
The fire didn't bother the camping area. Trails have been restored. Aug 22, 2013
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I was there over the weekend and didn't notice any mosquitoes. Oct 21, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
The routes have been sorted. Please let me know of any errors. Sep 29, 2014
Are pets allowed in Jack's Canyon? We just moved here from Kentucky and wanted to climb this weekend. We are looking to go to Casino wall on 3/19/16. Mar 17, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
^anything seems to be allowed at Jacks... Mar 17, 2016
^ I hope you mean that in a good way, Darren.... Mar 18, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
of course. just saying that its pretty wild and free there Mar 18, 2016
Hello everyone. This past weekend I was climbing out at jacks and lost my watch. If any one is out there bush waking and comes across it, it would be greatly appreciated if it was returned.

Much thanks Aug 13, 2017
Is there cell service nearby? Feb 28, 2018
Left a grey BD half dome helmet here! Likely at the Cracker Jack cliffs. Thanks! Apr 8, 2018
Remember to sign-in to the register near the outhouse. The forest service funding for the area is based on how many people register. This is a good practice for all sites that have registrations. Jun 10, 2018

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