Elevation: 6,242 ft
GPS: 34.755, -111.062 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 287,884 total · 1,585/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

Beautiful limestone, well protected sport routes with pulling on pockets and edges of mostly high quality rock. Setting is within a beautiful canyon and climbing can be had year around, chasing either the shade or the sun.

 For the majority of the year, the weather is beautiful (as is common of the desert southwest), with the best time of year being March through May (springtime), and September through November (fall). 

  • Floods occasionally drown some of the walls and make some of the climbs inaccessible, this varies by year.

Climbs here are, for the most part, very well protected, and range from 5.5 to 5.14. One can easily push their limits here, and do it safely. 

  • A clip stick is helpful for keeping some of the starts safer.

Getting There

From the north: Drive south on Highway 87, and look for mile marker 314.  Continue 0.3 miles to a gate on the right.  

From the south: Drive north on Hwy 87, and look for mile marker 313.  Continue 0.7 miles to a gate on your left.

The gate is marked with a ton of climbing stickers.  There is typically a piece of webbing/cord on the gate, use it to open the gate and please close the gate after passing through. 

9736F is the actual road number, Jack's Canyon

The Asylum and Lost World have separate driving directions. These directions are for the main Jacks Canyon area:   From the gate, continue straight ahead on a good dirt road. Turn left at a Y at 0.2 miles, then take a right at 0.4 miles.  When the road ends, you will find a pit toilet on the right.  Dispersed camping is found on the left side, as well as the trail to the clifftop.

Jacks Canyon approach from Hwy 87

The road in is passable by most vehicles, although some cars have experienced undercarriage damage.  After rain, the fine-grained soil turns to quicksand, and has led to many stuck vehicles.  So, if it is your first time driving offroad in northern Arizona, think twice before you optimistically plow through a large puddle.

Resources

Jacks Canyon Sport Climbing by Deidre Burton and Jim Steagall.

221 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Jacks Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 113
Jack Off
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 138
You Don't Know Jack $%^
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
Betty Cracker
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 157
Gouda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 237
Mickey Goes to Vegas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 87
Jack & Jill Go Bolting
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
Yarlsberg
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 129
Dealers Choice
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 93
Sports Book
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 93
Jack and the Beanstalk
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 140
Genesis
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 81
Crosstown Traffic
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
Bats in the Belfry
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 130
Sacrificial Lizard
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 83
Tales From the Grypt
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jack Off Cracker Jack Cliffs
 113
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
You Don't Know Jack $%^ Cracker Jack Cliffs
 138
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Betty Cracker Cracker Jack Cliffs
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gouda Swiss Wall
 157
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mickey Goes to Vegas Casino Cliffs
 237
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jack & Jill Go Bolting Cracker Jack Cliffs
 87
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Yarlsberg Swiss Wall
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dealers Choice Casino Cliffs
 129
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sports Book Casino Cliffs
 93
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Jack and the Beanstalk Cracker Jack Cliffs
 93
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Genesis Main Wall
 140
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Crosstown Traffic Cracker Jack Cliffs
 81
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bats in the Belfry Main Wall
 92
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sacrificial Lizard Main Wall
 130
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tales From the Grypt Main Wall
 83
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jacks Canyon »

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