Elevation: 6,242 ft
GPS: 34.755, -111.062 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 182,266 total · 1,130/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
Today
70°F - 38°F 21°C - 3°C
Sun
64°F - 39°F 18°C - 4°C
Memorial Day
55°F - 34°F 13°C - 1°C
Tue
65°F - 39°F 18°C - 4°C
Wed
71°F - 42°F 22°C - 6°C
Thu
74°F - 44°F 23°C - 7°C

Description

Beautiful limestone, well protected sport routes with pulling on pockets and edges of mostly high quality rock. Setting is within a beautiful canyon and climbing can be had year around, chasing either the shade or the sun. For the majority of the year, the weather is beautiful (as is common of the desert southwest), with the best time of year being March through May (springtime), and September through November (fall). Floods occasionally drown some of the walls and make some of the climbs inaccessible, this varies by year.

Climbs here are, for the most part, very well protected, and range from 5.6 to 5.13. One can easily push their limits here, and do it safely. A clip stick is helpful for keeping some of the starts safer.

Getting There

First, find Winslow, AZ, east of Flagstaff on Interstate 40. From I-40, take Winslow exit #253 (North Park Drive) and go south. Heading south on North Park Drive, in about a mile you will come upon Second street, turn left (one way going east). After several blocks you will hit a traffic light, turn south here (right) onto highway 87.

Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314.

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right. There is typically a piece of webbing on the gate, use it to open the gate and please close the gate after passing through. There is an obvious sign on the right just after the gate with some climbing stickers on it. This is how you will know you have found the right place. From the gate, continue straight ahead on a good dirt road. You will see a few turn offs along the way (with one large one at about 0.4 miles), just keep straight ahead on the best looking road. Eventually, you will come upon the camping area. There is a large forest service pit toilet here. There are various trails that head from the parking area into the canyon.

Resources

Jacks Canyon Sport Climbing by Deidre Burton and Jim Steagall.

218 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Jacks Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Jacks Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 91
Jack Off
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 111
You Don't Know Jack $%^
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 107
Betty Cracker
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 130
Gouda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 201
Mickey Goes to Vegas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 62
Jack & Jill Go Bolting
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 103
Yarlsberg
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 94
Dealers Choice
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 80
Sports Book
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 76
Jack and the Beanstalk
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 123
Genesis
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Crosstown Traffic
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
Bats in the Belfry
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 106
Sacrificial Lizard
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 74
Tales From the Grypt
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jack Off Cracker Jack Cliffs
 91
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
You Don't Know Jack $%^ Cracker Jack Cliffs
 111
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Betty Cracker Cracker Jack Cliffs
 107
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gouda Swiss Wall
 130
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mickey Goes to Vegas Casino Cliffs
 201
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jack & Jill Go Bolting Cracker Jack Cliffs
 62
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Yarlsberg Swiss Wall
 103
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dealers Choice Casino Cliffs
 94
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Sports Book Casino Cliffs
 80
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Jack and the Beanstalk Cracker Jack Cliffs
 76
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Genesis Main Wall
 123
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Crosstown Traffic Cracker Jack Cliffs
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bats in the Belfry Main Wall
 78
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sacrificial Lizard Main Wall
 106
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tales From the Grypt Main Wall
 74
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Jacks Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

On the directions to Jack's Canyon, the pull off for the gate is milepost 313.7 as noted on the map. But because the mileposts from Winslow are descending (starting at about 343), the directions should read:
'Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right.'

Traveling south on Hwy 87 to mile marker 313 takes you .7 miles past the turnoff.

Just had my first visit. What a great place!! Oct 10, 2006
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Because most all of the anchors at Jacks are cold shuts it's a must to use quickdraws while TRing and then have the last person rappel rather than lower with the rope threaded through the shuts. (Granted on the steeper climbs it may not be possible to rappel and clean draws but...) Jun 2, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Does anyone have beta on The Asylum? I am looking for driving directions, approach info and any sort of topo would be awesome. Oct 10, 2007
Maurice Liddy
Plymouth, NH
Maurice Liddy   Plymouth, NH
We got stuck there last week too. Do yourself a favor, park near the gate and walk in (unless you have 4wd). That's what we should have done! Dec 10, 2007
I was wondering what the camping situation is like? Also was wondering if anyone could recommend a fun route in the 12+ range.

Thanks in advance. Apr 16, 2008
Andrew R
Arizony
Andrew R   Arizony
There is plenty of camping at Jacks, lots of good-sized sites with fire pits about a 5 minute walk from the climbing. There is a pit toilet, but bring your own water and your own firewood; there aren't many trees out there to begin with and what is there has mostly been stripped clean. It can get quite cold after the sun goes down, even when the days are hot, so bring what you need to keep warm. It is very beautiful out there at night, and on some trips I think the time spent around the fire with friends, chatting and looking at the stars, was even better than the climbing.

Oh yeah, the camping is all free.

Classic 12+ routes at Jacks: Unpopular Mechanics, Trick or Tweak, Hooked on Pockets, Huecos Rancheros. Apr 16, 2008
Thanks!! Apr 21, 2008
kyber
Portland
kyber   Portland
going to jacks sometime next week, where can i pick up a guide book besides online? flagstaff? Apr 14, 2009
Andrew R
Arizony
Andrew R   Arizony
Yep kyber, they should have some at the gym in Flag, call them (928.556.9909) to make sure. Apr 15, 2009
John Hannah
Tucson
John Hannah   Tucson
HEADS UPS! This comment is spot on:

"On the directions to Jack's Canyon, the pull off for the gate is milepost 313.7 as noted on the map. But because the mileposts from Winslow are descending (starting at about 343), the directions should read:
'Continue south on Highway 87 for roughly 30 miles to mile marker 314

0.3 miles past this you will see a pull off to the right with a gate, turn right.'

Traveling south on Hwy 87 to mile marker 313 takes you .7 miles past the turnoff."

The directions as they are given above in the description are wrong. And going down the wrong road can get you screwed, as I found out. There are other turn offs in the area they actually describe that you don't want to go down in anything but a 4x4. Apr 21, 2009
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
I found a black water bladder that was stuck in a tree branch above the tree trunk one can use while crossing over the creek to get to Casino Cliffs. It belongs to one of the two other groups climbing on March 10, 2011. Please reply to this post with contact info and I will be in touch. Mar 10, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
The fire didn't bother the camping area. Trails have been restored. Aug 22, 2013
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I was there over the weekend and didn't notice any mosquitoes. Oct 21, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
The routes have been sorted. Please let me know of any errors. Sep 29, 2014
Are pets allowed in Jack's Canyon? We just moved here from Kentucky and wanted to climb this weekend. We are looking to go to Casino wall on 3/19/16. Mar 17, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
^anything seems to be allowed at Jacks... Mar 17, 2016
^ I hope you mean that in a good way, Darren.... Mar 18, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
of course. just saying that its pretty wild and free there Mar 18, 2016
Hello everyone. This past weekend I was climbing out at jacks and lost my watch. If any one is out there bush waking and comes across it, it would be greatly appreciated if it was returned.

Much thanks Aug 13, 2017
Is there cell service nearby? Feb 28, 2018
Left a grey BD half dome helmet here! Likely at the Cracker Jack cliffs. Thanks! Apr 8, 2018
Remember to sign-in to the register near the outhouse. The forest service funding for the area is based on how many people register. This is a good practice for all sites that have registrations. Jun 10, 2018
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
One thing that I haven't seen mentioned here is the fact that the campground at the trailhead is infested with goat heads.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tribu…
The seeds are ripe in the fall, around late September, and the ground is liberally covered with the painful, puncturing seeds. Not a fun place if you have doggies. Or to set up a tent. I'd be curious what the AZ locals do to cope with them while camping here?
There are other goat-head-free camping areas a few miles south, also on national forest land. Sep 25, 2018
Tyler Mattix
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Mattix   Flagstaff, AZ
Some footage from a trip to Jack's Canyon in June of 2018:

youtube.com/watch?v=XMUNp4q… Jan 29, 2019
Tyler Hutchinson   Nomadic
I don't know about "good dirt road", but the climbing is top notch.

The road in is bumpier than most and this has been the only place in America where we managed to get the van stuck in the mud. The soil is soft, so although there was no rain the whole area was still muddy and slick until it all froze. Unless you have a competent off-road vehicle, you may want to drive with extra caution. Feb 12, 2019
Badana Banantula
Albuquerque, NM
Badana Banantula   Albuquerque, NM
BEWARE OF ROCK FALL, especially under the prominent roofs along Cracker Jack Cliffs. This photo shows a block the size of a pick up truck that used the be the middle section of Milk Money (I think). This block must have fallen early this spring.



Another area to avoid is the corner near CROSS TOWN TRAFFIC. Massive blocks are falling from the roof here. This route is great, but might be worth avoiding for a while until the blocks have all come down. Apr 21, 2019
Gregory Cooper
Phoenix Arizona
Gregory Cooper   Phoenix Arizona
What are the conditions like there right now. Planning on heading there May 4-5. Is the stream flowing pretty strong? is it crossable? Apr 27, 2019 · Temporary Report
Badana Banantula
Albuquerque, NM
Badana Banantula   Albuquerque, NM
Last weekend, all the climbing areas were accessible except for the left-most parts of Main Wall. The stream isn't flowing, but there are pools of water here and there. You can cross the stream on dry ground no problem. By next week the pools near Main Wall will likely be dry too. Apr 28, 2019