Type: Sport
FA: Chris Hahn
Page Views: 3,742 total · 24/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

Good first lead. Classic!

Location

On the separate boulder at the east end of Cracker Jack Cliffs, starts in the creek bed.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors

Photos

Aesthetic and a must-do novelty, but by no means classic. I wouldn't stick a conservative beginning leader on a traversing route like this, but that's just me. Bakes in the sun and inaccessible during periods of high water. Mar 21, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Agreed, Hillary! Our group had two relatively new leaders get on this route last weekend and both got stymied at the third bolt where the small pockets disappear for a moment and one must rely on smearing on dished areas in the rock. Granted, with the angle of the rock it's not hard but it's hard to commit to when you're a new leader.

Neat route! Oct 10, 2007
Andrew R
Arizony
  5.5
Andrew R   Arizony
  5.5
Sorry guys, but I respectfully disagree... we had a brand new leader on this route yesterday (i.e. this was his first day leading) and he did just fine. What's wrong with a new leader having to commit to small footholds? Sounds like a good thing to me, especially on a well-protected route like this. It's not like you're going a long way or hitting the ground if you fall, since there's 5 bolts in barely 30 feet of climbing and the hard part is near the top. Plus, a third can scramble up the side of the boulder and make sure the leader sets up the anchors properly. I don't think it gets much better for a first lead. Dec 3, 2007
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
 
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
 
Its a great first lead because it is safe but if they are really conservative then they can still get a taste of the terror that is to come with future lead climbing. Mar 6, 2008
Randy Loveless
  5.6 PG13
Randy Loveless  
  5.6 PG13
I really liked this route, but my climbing buddy didn't care for it much. Not the easiest of 5.5's.... maybe more of a 5.6. Fun route, though, and a nice warm up! Oct 23, 2008
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
Great first lead for a first timer Feb 10, 2009
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
5.5
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
5.5
Solo it already... Apr 22, 2009
Peter Thomas
Prescott, AZ
  5.5
Peter Thomas   Prescott, AZ
  5.5
Bolts are starting to show rust streaks Oct 6, 2013
Timothy Carlson
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Timothy Carlson   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Perhaps the best route for a new leader in all of N. Arizona. Feb 26, 2017