Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Stegall. March 1996
Page Views: 1,389 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

This is a really nice route that goes up on nice big moves to an overhang finish. The guidebook originally rated it 10d and then upgraded it to 11a. If you move right at the top, rather than going straight up the bulge, you may think this is the easiest 11a on the planet.

Protection

5 bolts and shuts.

Location

This route starts just right of the corner system where Best Seller is found. Far left end of the Cracker Jack Cliffs, just right of a big overhang.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c/d
Did the route today for the first time in many years. The route is fun and provides enjoyable 10+ climbing to the steep top section.

Don't think it's all fun and games though and be prepared for a lack of the clipping holds when going for the anchor. You've got a shoulder height side pull for your right to clip from and that's about it with the exception of a good stance.

Route is good, softer than the guidebook but not a gimme. Today, to me, it felt awkward clipping with the bent elbow right arm. Apr 2, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b/c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b/c
In description above "If you move right at the top, rather than going straight up the bulge, you may think this is the easiest 11a on the planet."

So true. We were thinking it was 10b-ish but, of course, we were grabbing the big ledge on the right side of the anchors at the bulge. It didn't seem unreasonable or off the route to grab that and, in fact, I think it would be a very strenuous anchor clip without it.

Nonetheless, this is a very fun route. Oct 9, 2007
Christian Shope
Tacoma
  5.10c/d
Christian Shope   Tacoma
  5.10c/d
Very fun. I found it mentally challenging as a lead climb and not technical. Mar 14, 2013