Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jack Curtin and John Wells 1965
Page Views: 7,499 total · 61/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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A clean, moderate route on the North Face, seen in profile from Clear Lake. A nice warmup climb or for those wanting an easy day.

The first three and a half pitches are the best with clean rock and continuous moderate climbing. The first pitch is a hand crack in a left facing corner which leads to an obvious ramp leading up and left. The second pitch is a thin crack in a right facing dihedral, which leads to an overhang - which can be climbed directly via the thin crack (5.7 variation) which peters out (and is hard to protect). The easiest way is to traverse around to the right until a crack and hand traverse leads back to the left and connects with the 5.7 variation. Above here, there is a hand crack, and the angle starts to diminish, so there are many options for the last pitch and a half.


On the North Face of Haystack.

A ridge separates the Clear Lake/Deep Lake and Black Joe drainages and rises to meet the North Face of Haystack - the route begins where this ridge steepens to become the North Face.

From Clear Lake, some third or fourth class scrambling is required to make the top of the ridge, which is then followed southeastward to the North Face of Haystack.

The route starts in the right hand of two left facing dihedrals. Look for the steep ramp which leads back left at the top of the left facing dihedral which is pitch one.

The descent is via the Grassy Goat Trail. After unroping, continue southeastward toward the north summit of Haystack. If you try to cut south too soon, a steep drop off will be encountered on a rib of red rock. This is the rib of reddish rock which is just south of the top of the Minor Dihedral route. Once you clear the east end of the red rib of rock, trend southwestward to the top of the Grassy Goat Trail. Look for some cairns which lead to the top of the Grassy Goat Trail.


A standard rack. Some of the thin cracks have crystals in them (reminiscent of Vedauwoo) which make them hard to protect with stoppers - alien sized cams solve this problem.

A piece of hand to fist-sized protection to protect the hand traverse back to the left.