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Routes in Haystack Mountain

Central Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flash Flood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infinity Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labor Day T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Lowe-Spark T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c A0
Major Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 R
Minor Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pika Alliteration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pitch off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Railroad Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapture, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seams Thin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Wall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Pete Croff, Phil Fowler, Richard Schori 1964
Page Views: 13,307 total, 95/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

Stellar route with sweet views, exposure, and mostly clean rock.

See the description for finding the route to decide which start you want to do. I'll start with P4, but this could be P2 from the traversing start.

P4: 130' r-facing corner (5.8+/5.9) belay below a roof.
P5: Traverse right about 10ft. then follow a 5.8 crack that angles back to the left. 160' 5.8
P6: Another small traverse right leads to broken rock and a L-facing corner. Keep going until you are at a ledge below the large R-facing dihedral.
P7-8: One of the best pitches of dihedral climbing. Combine this with P8 to make a long, stellar pitch if you have the gear to stretch it. 5.9 long
P9: Starts with a chimney that leads to double cracks (see hex master photo). Belay on a nice ledge. 5.8
P10: Continue angling right to a large ledge. 5.7
P11-12: easier climbing to the top.

Location

There are two starts to the route:

  • Start as for Major Dihedral, but angle down and right after the first belay point over a seam. Then head back up and right over flakes and ledges to the prominent r-facing corner.
  • A better start in my opinion, is from 3rd class ledges to the right of that dihedral. You'll have to scramble up a bit then traverse out left to the start. The way we did this makes the start PG-13 to R.

Descent: head south down from the tower toward the Center section. Look for a trail of sorts that provides a 4th class descent though grassy ledges. Requires a bit of route finding. The trail/route actually has a name, Grassy Goat Trail.

Protection

Standard rack with some extra cams in the hand range.
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Not sure what roof is getting referenced at the end of P1 (original P-4), We didn't see any obvious roof. Climbed past the crux, ran it about 10-15' to an obvious 10' traverse into the P2 crack on the right. seemed like the way to do it, so long as you can manage the rope drag (run it out on easy traverse terrain and the start of the crack a bit). Following the description to belay below a roof, a party before us traversed left to a "roof" and had a rather committing 25' traverse into the P2 crack. Led to some interesting gear placing and rope clipping shenanigans.
If you link P1 into the first part of P2 it is possible to make your second pitch the p-3 slab/scramble traverse. That being said the traverse is a tad bit scarier leading it from below the traverse than above (check out Steph Abegg's photo if you don't know what traverse I am talking about).. Not too bad, but an 8' 5.7-5.8 slab traverse sounds a bit more accurate than a 5.6 traverse. from above you still have potential to swing into the dihedral, but it is a tad bit safer.

Outside of these details the route was pretty straight forward, Every pitch to the very last 50' scramble to the top was awesome. Was my favorite summit of the routes we did on Haystack. Sep 12, 2017
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.9
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.9
Awesome Route. Just did this a week ago, really awesome adventure thats not to difficult. The route does not get a whole lot of sun so it was a little wet when we climbed it a few days after a storm. It protects very well, we took doubles in .5-3 but you can get by with less. There were only 2 friction traverses to new cracks that don't take any gear, but very mellow. Only reason it wasn't 4 stars is because it was a little dirty and vegetated on some ledges.

For the descent make sure you access the grassy goat ramp by NOT going down the rocky gully and by instead walking up around and then down the top of the mountain to the ramp. Look for a rap station with red webbing towards the bottom when the grass ends. Webbing and rings look good as of 07/15.

Enjoy! Jul 20, 2015
Tyson
Seattle, WA
 
Tyson   Seattle, WA
 
Beautiful route. I climbed it on Sunday of a busy Labor Day weekend when there were ~100 cars in the Big Sandy parking lot. We only saw one other party on the route, so it seems to be a good option to avoid crowds in the Cirque.

P4 as described above seemed like the crux. When the crack ends, climb some 5.8/5.9 slab to another thin crack before traversing right. These moves are exciting as gear is below your feet, but the fall would be safe.

We talked to another party that traversed too early and found some scary R/X-rated slab, so be careful where you choose to step right on the traverse. If you're traversing more than 10-15 feet, or if the traverse is harder than 5.7/5.8 you're probably off route.

The corner pitch is awesome. The GGT descent is fast and chill. Sep 3, 2013
Mark Vogel
Lander, WY
Mark Vogel   Lander, WY
Great video, guys.

Sampled this route with my lady last year, one of our best days in the mountains ever! Feb 22, 2010
Chasem
 
Chasem  
 
Great route! It's a nice 5.8 with a few 5.9 moves. We started on the higher 3rd class ledges. The beginning traverse doesn't protect very well, but I remember it being fairly easy. Wonderful outing!


youtube.com/watch?v=pINQRfP… Jan 8, 2010
Larry
SoAZ
Larry   SoAZ
jayci, his name was Phil Fowler. Check the date on the FA. Charlie was just 10 years old.

And Ben Mottinger, it was Pete Croff, not Croft. Jul 9, 2009
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
I've climbed this route about 5 times.

The first time I climbed it was in 1974, and it was called the "Fowler Route" And yes, the Bonney Guide rated it only 5.7, but it was common knowledge among the "locals" (climbers from Rock Springs, Green River, and Pinedale) that there were a few moves of 5.9 on the climb. Don't know why Kelsey decided to rename it to Minor Dihedral.

The 5.9 moves are on the "first" pitch (P4 - most people start the climb via the traverse in on pitch 4). It starts as a crack in a right facing dihedral, the dihedral ends in a finger size crack, which then ends with about 10 feet of 5.9 friction to reach another crack/corner above.

The second stretch of 5.9 is on the first full pitch of the dihedral. There are some thin stemming/thin hands/fingers where the dihedral steepens for about 10 feet.

It's a great route - not too easy and not too hard. Beautiful location and views, and an obvious line once you start the hand crack which leads to the dihedral and continues almost to the summit.

The twin cracks high on the route can be running with water in early season or if there has been a lot of thunderstorm activity.

Descending the grassy goat trail takes a bit of time, so account for that in planning for time. Also, it's quite treacherous when it is wet (parts of it become "streams"), so make sure you are down before afternoon thunderstorms... Mar 20, 2009
jayci
Flagstaff
jayci   Flagstaff
Just for your info his name was charlie fowler and he was a bad ass. Jun 18, 2008
Sarge  
We thought this was one of the best routes in the area. Deserving of 4 stars. Mar 31, 2007
The original start is actually not such bad climbing. I thought it was worth doing, if only for the sake of making the route feel a bit longer. Sometimes longer is better. Sep 5, 2006
This was the longest climb I'd ever done, on my first trip to the Wind's in '73. We were using the Bonney guide that called this a 23 pitch 5.7 route. Living in Chicago at the time, the longest climb I'd ever done was a 2 pitch climb in Estes the summer of '72, so the sound of a 23 pitch, 5.7 route was too good to be true.

At least we were Devils' Lake 5.10 climbers at the time, because I thought is was a "bit" harder than 5.7, or it could have been all the bivy gear we were carrying for a 23 pitch climb.

This is still one of my favorite climbs in the Wind's, a true moderate up a perfect face.
Sep 3, 2006
Tea
Tea  
Fun Route! With the added benefit of not having to go over Jackass Pass...this one should be on your list for sure. Jun 11, 2006