Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Pete Croff, Phil Fowler, Richard Schori 1964
Page Views: 15,734 total · 98/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on May 26, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Stellar route with sweet views, exposure, and mostly clean rock.

See the description for finding the route to decide which start you want to do. I'll start with P4, but this could be P2 from the traversing start.

P4: 130' r-facing corner (5.8+/5.9) belay below a roof.
P5: Traverse right about 10ft. then follow a 5.8 crack that angles back to the left. 160' 5.8
P6: Another small traverse right leads to broken rock and a L-facing corner. Keep going until you are at a ledge below the large R-facing dihedral.
P7-8: One of the best pitches of dihedral climbing. Combine this with P8 to make a long, stellar pitch if you have the gear to stretch it. 5.9 long
P9: Starts with a chimney that leads to double cracks (see hex master photo). Belay on a nice ledge. 5.8
P10: Continue angling right to a large ledge. 5.7
P11-12: easier climbing to the top.

Location

There are two starts to the route:

  • Start as for Major Dihedral, but angle down and right after the first belay point over a seam. Then head back up and right over flakes and ledges to the prominent r-facing corner.
  • A better start in my opinion, is from 3rd class ledges to the right of that dihedral. You'll have to scramble up a bit then traverse out left to the start. The way we did this makes the start PG-13 to R.

Descent: head south down from the tower toward the Center section. Look for a trail of sorts that provides a 4th class descent though grassy ledges. Requires a bit of route finding. The trail/route actually has a name, Grassy Goat Trail.

Protection

Standard rack with some extra cams in the hand range.

Photos