Avg: 3.6 from 95 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Pete Croff, Phil Fowler, Richard Schori 1964|
|Page Views:||18,661 total · 107/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Mottinger on May 26, 2006|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
See the description for finding the route to decide which start you want to do. I'll start with P4, but this could be P2 from the traversing start.
P4: 130' r-facing corner (5.8+/5.9) belay below a roof.
P5: Traverse right about 10ft. then follow a 5.8 crack that angles back to the left. 160' 5.8
P6: Another small traverse right leads to broken rock and a L-facing corner. Keep going until you are at a ledge below the large R-facing dihedral.
P7-8: One of the best pitches of dihedral climbing. Combine this with P8 to make a long, stellar pitch if you have the gear to stretch it. 5.9 long
P9: Starts with a chimney that leads to double cracks (see hex master photo). Belay on a nice ledge. 5.8
P10: Continue angling right to a large ledge. 5.7
P11-12: easier climbing to the top.
- Start as for Major Dihedral, but angle down and right after the first belay point over a seam. Then head back up and right over flakes and ledges to the prominent r-facing corner.
- A better start in my opinion, is from 3rd class ledges to the right of that dihedral. You'll have to scramble up a bit then traverse out left to the start. The way we did this makes the start PG-13 to R.
Descent: head south down from the tower toward the Center section. Look for a trail of sorts that provides a 4th class descent though grassy ledges. Requires a bit of route finding. The trail/route actually has a name, Grassy Goat Trail.