All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Deep Lake Area > Haystack Mountain

Pitch off

Name: Pitch off
Rating: 2.5

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Haystack Mountain

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Road to Nowhere T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Caught in the Act T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Central Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Deep Lake Cirque Traverse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	East Buttress Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flash Flood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grassy Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Grassy Goat Trail T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Great Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Hay Maker T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Infinity Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Lowe-Spark (North Tower Crack) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c A0
	Major Dihedral T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1 R
	Minor Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	North Face Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	North Gully T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Pika Alliteration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pitch off T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Railroad Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rapture, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Seams Thin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Southern Wall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	42.73004, -109.17068
FA:	Chris Abbott and Tim Wolfe 1995
Page Views:	1,509 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Tim Wolfe on Aug 6, 2010
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route has some challenging and aesthetic upper pitches but a few lower easier pitches must be dealt with before you get to them. It is a nice half day route on the south end of Haystack Mountain. I named it pitch off because 14 years after the first ascent I went back and led it again (we had rated it 5.9) and took a HUGE fall off the 4th pitch.

Scramble up the south gully until it is possible to traverse right into a large black section of rock. Climb to its top left edge and belay at the base of an S shaped crack.
Pitch 1: Climb the S shaped crack to a smaller black section of rock. Climb up cracks on its right side, then step right to a ledge at the bottom of a shallow right facing corner. 5.6 150 feet.
Pitch 2: Climb the shallow corner past two pointed roofs and continue up left on a ledge system. 5.4 160 feet.
Pitch 3: Climb slightly further left on the ledges, then up a crack that arches right and intersects a small roof. Undercling out left under the roof and pull over it at its left end. Belay on the ledge in the corner. 5.7 120 feet.
Pitch 4: Lieback/undercling the strenuous left leaning/left facing corner above, continue up it to a right facing flake. Climb this to a large ledge below two thin cracks. 5.10 100 feet.
Pitch 5: Climb the left crack/seam system then up face and over right side of a large roof. 5.9 150 feet.

Location

The route is on the southern end of Haystack, slightly to the left of the well known West Face, south end route. Descent via the grassy goat ledges (do not go south to the col between Haystack and Steeple peak.)

Protection

Standard granite alpine rack. Be sure to have medium sized camming units to protect the undercling pod half way up pitch 4. RP's or steel nuts and tiny cams or wires are nice for the final thin crack.