Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Chris Abbott and Tim Wolfe 1995|
|Page Views:||691 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Wolfe on Aug 6, 2010|
DescriptionThis route has some challenging and aesthetic upper pitches but a few lower easier pitches must be dealt with before you get to them. It is a nice half day route on the south end of Haystack Mountain. I named it pitch off because 14 years after the first ascent I went back and led it again (we had rated it 5.9) and took a HUGE fall off the 4th pitch.
Scramble up the south gully until it is possible to traverse right into a large black section of rock. Climb to its top left edge and belay at the base of an S shaped crack.
Pitch 1: Climb the S shaped crack to a smaller black section of rock. Climb up cracks on its right side, then step right to a ledge at the bottom of a shallow right facing corner. 5.6 150 feet.
Pitch 2: Climb the shallow corner past two pointed roofs and continue up left on a ledge system. 5.4 160 feet.
Pitch 3: Climb slightly further left on the ledges, then up a crack that arches right and intersects a small roof. Undercling out left under the roof and pull over it at its left end. Belay on the ledge in the corner. 5.7 120 feet.
Pitch 4: Lieback/undercling the strenuous left leaning/left facing corner above, continue up it to a right facing flake. Climb this to a large ledge below two thin cracks. 5.10 100 feet.
Pitch 5: Climb the left crack/seam system then up face and over right side of a large roof. 5.9 150 feet.