Type: Trad, Alpine, 640 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Carter/Ebert 1969
Page Views: 1,040 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dapper Dan Rogers on Sep 24, 2012
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A grassy/slabby initial pitch or two leads to three or so pitches of nice 5.8/9 climbing.

P1 and P2: An easy Simo if you choose to. Trend left up on grassy flakes and slabs to a big slopey ledge left of the dihedral, a couple moves shy of the obvious roof.

P3 (crux 5.9): Move up and through the roof, passing a welcomed (old) bolt. A few steep moves turn into a bulgey crack (we took the right one), to a belay ledge just below a steep corner, that can take bigger gear if you traverse slightly right.

P4 and P5 (5.8): Can combine with a 70m. Climb the good corner, with one kind of weird offwidthey, tight move about midway. Belay on 4th class terrain above, scramble to the ridge. This will stretch a 70m if you choose to combine them.

Descend left, back to clear lake, or go ahead and climb the North Face, since you are already at the start!

Location

From Clear Lake, look for the huge arches on the leftmost side of haystack, aim for a grassy ledge at the base of the wall, more or less directly under the highest spot on the arch. Start near a big ol' flake well right of the corner.

Protection

Standard Winds rack, small cams seem to be helpful, a few longer slings of course.

Photos