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Routes in Haystack Mountain

Central Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flash Flood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infinity Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labor Day T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Lowe-Spark T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c A0
Major Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 R
Minor Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pika Alliteration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pitch off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Railroad Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapture, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seams Thin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Wall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 520 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jared Spaulding, Jake Koplen, & Jackson Smith August 3, 2010
Page Views: 1,400 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Nov 28, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

There is a ledge system with trees 1/3 of the way up this route. Start below and left of this ledge system at a clump of trees high on the base of the north shoulder.

P.1 climb over some blocks, angling left up to a slab and then to a corner where one can set a semi-hanging belay off of TCUs and tricams. This provides a protected belay spot from the corner above (90’)

P.2 climb the left facing corner above for about 183’, passing the treed ledge system on the right and through a small bulge in the corner (5.6ish) Belay above bulge where angle lessens, or in my case, when you run out of rope. Some small grassy patches on this pitch (183’)

P.3 Climb right up ramps and cracks and slabs to a giant ledge below and right of large, blocky, steep but short corner system (183’)

P.4 Move left, up cracks to a steep left facing, hand/fist corner. Belay at top of corner (70’ 5.8 ish)

Fourth class terrain for 40 feet takes you to the top of the shoulder.

Location

This route climbs the north shoulder of Haystack Mountain to the left of Flash Flood. It ends a couple hundred yards below the start of the North Face route on Haystack.

Protection

SLCDs and nuts. A #4 Camalot useful on last pitch.

Photos

RockinGal
Boulder CO
RockinGal   Boulder CO
Good afternoon route when at Haystack. In my party's opinion, the fourth pitch was closer to 5.9ish than 5.8. Well protected. Sep 7, 2017
will ar
San Antonio, TX
will ar   San Antonio, TX
Climbed this route a few weeks ago and is a good link up with the north face if you're looking for something a little easier than flash flood. I would recommend climbing almost a full rope length for the first pitch so that you can reach a nice ledge instead of the hanging belay. It might be possible to do the whole thing in three pitches, but there would be huge amount of rope drag on the final pitch. Aug 31, 2012
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
Well Rob, you caught me there. It is definitely a typo. Thanks for the heads up. What it actually refers to is "Pat pika piles plastic peanuts, placing pockets of permanent precarious piles" or any thing else you can think up. Jan 25, 2011