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Routes in Haystack Mountain

Central Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flash Flood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infinity Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labor Day T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Lowe-Spark T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c A0
Major Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 R
Minor Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pika Alliteration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pitch off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Railroad Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapture, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seams Thin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Wall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Joe Kelsey, Dave Loeks, & Dick Williams 1974
Page Views: 5,434 total, 48/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

8-9 Pitches of quality climbing. High quality rock and aesthetic movement make this a quality route worth the hike. Lots of slabby corners and a challenging crux pitch.

To reach the base of the climb approach as shown in the picture. Scrambling through the trees and some boulder fields will get you to the cliff. Scramble up to the big red/orange spot and belay at its bottom.

P1 Climb up and right to a ledge below two shallow right facing dihedrals and belay. 100'

P2 Climb up the right most dihedral, curving right at its top and finally slab traversing right to a left facing corner and belay.

P3 Climb up, left around a flake and up left facing corners to sizeable ledge.

P4 Climb more left facing corners to a large, sloping ledge at the base of a large crease/open book.

P5 Ascend cracks up crease (5.8ish) moving left then back right before climbing a shallow overlap to a small stance about 10-15' below a bulging right facing corner.

P6 The crux. Climb through bulging right facing corner, ascending a ramp with a thin crack to a steep thin crack and up to the right side of a large sloping ledge.

P7 Climb a finger crack through a small overlap/roof up and right. Follow this to a ledge. Descend ledge right until somewhere below the second right facing dihedral and belay.

P8 Climb challenging slab to right facing corner and up corner. Traverse left on chicken heads/knobs before top of corner, ascending to a roof and doing a hand traverse left, continuing for 15 meters or so until reaching a good stance/ledge below a right facing corner.

P9 Ascend right facing and low angle corner up and past steep move up and to the left about 5-7 meters off the belay. Follow low angle crack to large ledge and traverse up and right to obvious corner cracks. Climb up and through cracks, belaying when you run out of rope.

Scramble to ridge crest.

Descent: Follow ridge crest north and then continue north until above the grassy goat trail. This is about a 15-20 minute stroll from the top. Lots of boulder hopping. It is easiest to stay high on the mountain (to the east) and then drop back down and to the grassy goat trail in a NE to SW direction. Cairns are fairly easy to spot. Descend with caution as there are exposed areas.

Location

On the southern half of the west face of Haystack. It is above Deep Lake.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 Black Diamond Camalot with extra small wires and cams. Offset nuts and or aliens would have been useful.

Photos

Chris Dickson
Telluride, Colorado
 
Chris Dickson   Telluride, Colorado
 
Got a little lost on the large ledge near Pitch 6/7. We could not find the start to the "second R-facing dihedral" mentioned previously. Instead, we went up the first obvious r-facing corner and did a slab traverse back right into the proper corner. I think a better way would be to bring your follower up to the ledge, move the belay down and right along the ledge for 50 ft to a not-so-great stance where the ledge ends. Then, face climb up to gain a large R-facing corner above (which cannot be seen from the big ledge). Once you're in that corner, the beta mentioned by Jared in spot on. Also, the crux finger crack protected nicely with C3's. I placed a #0 (Green) and #1 (Red) on the crux pitch along with some offset nuts. The crux comes after the initial roof above the belay on that pitch, so save some juice for it! Sep 2, 2016
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.10c
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.10c
Did this with Mark Vogel on 7/18/09...Great route...the second crux on the 10c pitch is shaky pro...I managed a #1 camalot and a .75 camalot, both not great but found a fairly good 3 stopper placement a little lower. The camalots might slow you down enough so the stopper holds. Maybe some HB offsets would work here? Fortunately the crux there is short and fairly obvious what to do, but you just don't really want to go airborne there: if that stopper pulled it would be a bad fall. It's a committing set of moves, for sure. The topo on this website is accurate: nice job! The direct finish has one or two 5.7 moves along the corners above the belay. Above the roof in this corner, go up to a big ledge, go right and up along this ledge to another easier stepped corner and atop this it goes class 3. Really a fun way off the top. I recommend this climb very highly. Jul 21, 2009
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
Ahh you are correct, it is the right most of the two shallow corners. Thanks, I'll fix that. Sep 20, 2008
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
I'd reiterate what Stan says about the crux being hard to protect. I backed off this pitch when I was 20 ft. above my last gear, unable to get anything in, unable to see any good placements up above, and right in the middle of 5.10 climbing at my limit. We had a fairly spartan backcountry rack, though. Some extra tricams, large hb offsets, or small offset cams (which neither of us owned anyway) could help, as the crack is more of a flared overlap.

Or being bold could help. I wasn't.

The climbing on the 5 and 1/2 pitches we did was awesome, and it looked even better above. Pitch 2 seemed suprisingly difficult (Kelsey's topo implies that its 5.7). Sep 16, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10c
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10c
I think you mean the right of the two corners on pitch 2. That is what we did and your pic makes me think that's what you did too. The crux thin crack is hard to protect - got one decent .75 camalot. Make sure you take the right of two large right-facing corners on pitch 8 (the left one is no fun!). We started in the left one and then ended up traversing to the right one. Also it looks like you added a direct finish (how hard was it?). We traversed left for about 300 feet or so on the prominent ledge as the guide dictated. Sep 16, 2008