Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Fred Becky, Jerry Fuller 1964
Page Views: 659 total · 30/month
Shared By: johnny utah on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

This route is listed as 5.10c in the Bechtel guide but in my opinion it is not as reflective as the rating I listed it as. The route goes at solid 5.9 with one clean aid move over a difficult V4ish roof problem that far exceeds a 10c rating. Totally free, in reality, the route would probably go around 5.11. All said this is a great route that isn't all that scary (R rating included).

Pitch 1: ~80'. Face climb up into left facing corner then pull through it to the right to a belay on the bushy ledge. 5.6.

Pitch 2: ~100'. Face climb left of the ledge under the roof then pull through it (5.9) about 20 left of the belay ledge. Continue up and right through steep rock to another roof (V4 strenuous crux). Step slightly right then up through it (can be clean aided through with a couple mid sized cams) to a left facing flake and small corner above. Continue to the second ledge about 40' above the roof.

Pitch 3: ~120'. Traverse right and down off the belay ledge 25' then up unprotected slab above to a small ledge (5.8+ R). This is not a particularly hard move but one of high consequence of a large swinging whipper into the corner below and left. Don't fall. Continue up arching easy left facing corner and seam to small grassy stance 10' right of right facing corner to the left.

Pitch 4: ~140'. The 'R' pitch in the Bechtel book. Traverse left to the right facing corner and climb up it and then the left trending seam above (5.9 PG-13). Before the end of the seam traverse left to large ledge and belay at far left side of it. Really, a great pitch!

Pitch 5: ~ 110'. Traverse left around the corner to a another defined left facing corner system. Climb through some great moves then a thin right leaning crack section high before belaying on a good upper ledge (there is one small one below I believe). 5.9-.

Pitch 6: ~110'. Climb the right facing corner on the left of the belay then send steeper ground on the grassy crack above which angles straight to the major, right facing dihedral above. The grassy crack would be a lot easier if defoliated. 5.9+. Pass loose flakes above and belay at a small but good perch like ledge.

Pitch 7: ~110'. Climb the corner to the top of a defined pedestal. 5.8.

Pitch 8: ~180'. Climb through stout moves above the belay passing a pin (5.9) to an easier roof. Climb through the roof and press on to a large ledge on the left in a break in the corner.

Pitch 9: ~180'. Keep climbing the corner and belay where comfortable. 5.7-

Pitch 10: ~190'. Climb the corner through another easy roof and a bulge above to easier ground above and where the corner peters out. 5.7

Pitch 11: ~200'. 4th class slabs and cracks to the top of the buttress.

Location

Location:
On the North Tower under the arching roofs left of the snow patch and just left of a defined left facing arching corner system.

Descent:
Descend north via cairns and the North Gully route. There is one optional 25m rap. Or, descend to the south via the G.G.T.

Protection

Standard rack 00-#4, doubles .3-#3, micro and standard nuts (offsets useful), several long slings. Climbing with half ropes helpful for the following climber due to traverses. No anchors are fixed.

Photos