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Routes in Haystack Mountain

Central Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flash Flood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infinity Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Labor Day T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Lowe-Spark T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c A0
Major Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 R
Minor Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pika Alliteration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pitch off T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Railroad Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapture, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seams Thin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Wall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,899 total · 31/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

5 pitches of good climbing on clean rock, with the 2nd pitch being the crux. Scramble up the slabs to the obvious corner. Last ptich is mostly easy scrambling If you are camping on the slabs across from Haystack; there are great views of this climb. Descend via the goat track.

Location

Pretty much in the center of the wall, right of the railroad tracks and left of the great chimney.

Protection

standard mountain rack
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Could probably rope up for three pitches before you reach the start of the corner, pretty long. if you come in from the left/ first meadow, expect 5.6 peppered with some 5.7-5.8 roof pulls and slabby moves. We chose to solo to the base of the corner, and it felt pretty exposed after the first meadow. Probably would simul this section if I were to go again. Sep 12, 2017
If you go by the Steve Bechtel guide, we found he was a off on pitches and length. It is about 450 feet to the the corner. The way we went did not seem like 5.2, but had a few 5.8 moves. All pitches are rope stretchers. The corner pitch seemed about 10a. A standard rack to #3 is fine. We had doubles, but it would be nice to have a few more hand pieces and a few smaller pieces. Awesome route! Sep 9, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
We simul-climbed the first long pitch to the big ledge at the base of the steeper climbing. Three high quality pitches leads to another big ledge and then one more pitch to the top. Might want a couple of extra thin hand size pieces. Aug 13, 2008