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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs

- V-easy 3
Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Turd Burglar V6 7A
Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
White Shores T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 46 total, 0/month
Shared By: todd finley on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Start underclinging the crack with a boulder to your back, and your feet on the rail to the left of the crack. Work your way up and over the lip any which way you can. SCARY TOPOUT.


This is the huge boulder just below the sweet loaf formation that you walk past in the drainage during the aproach. The crack that smokes you climbs directly out the middle of this roof using the obvious crack.


Several pads, spotter.


- No Photos -
The description sounds like Cranium Capacity. The rating is certainly 10, but 5.10, not V10, putting the bouldering rating at about V0. Dec 22, 2009
todd finley  
This is Colorado, it's always possible somebody already climbed it... although I did quite a bit of landscaping and built a landing. I'll get some pics to verify, because it wasn't V10 to me. Apr 14, 2009
Todd -
If you're ref. to the massive boulder with the big splitter that goes thru a roof at its bottom (Cranium Capacity, 10b), then it certainly has been climbed before, and is in a guide. . . . I believe Bernard (Rock Climbing St. Vrain Canyons guide) says it goes at 5.10+, although it seemed a bit harder to me. There's a few short routes or high boulder problems on this rock.
Sorry Toddy. . . . Mar 22, 2009