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Routes in Lower Virgin

50/50 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Fistful of Pesos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Cop, No Donut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cabeza de Chivo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Quixote S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Balota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Conception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mexican Vacation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mexico in Flames S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monarca S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre Mugre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sancho Panza S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Selam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shroud, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thonga de T S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tilting at Windmills S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trouble at the Border S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Alex Caitlin and David Dangerfield
Page Views: 1,822 total · 16/month
Shared By: kyber on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


104 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

a good long warmup route with nice movements on easy holds..

Location [Suggest Change]

the small little area right before don q.

Protection [Suggest Change]

lots of draws, probably 14 to 16. also make sure you have a 70 with a knot in the end and can down climb the first bolt or just take two ropes. another option would be to rappel to the anchors of flying scorpion.

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A tricky 10a. Note: a 70 meter rope will NOT get you back to the ground! Jan 7, 2009
Sam Brotherton
Los Angeles, CA
 
Sam Brotherton   Los Angeles, CA
 
a surprisingly good climb - sustained, thoughtful 10a moves to the top. it's totally worth the two raps it takes to get down. Feb 15, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I love this climb. All 140 feet! you need two ropes to get down or lower to the the anchors on Flying Scorpian. A lot of great moves on this climb. Edges, crimps, jugs...it's all there! Nov 20, 2011
MAKB
Denver, CO
 
MAKB   Denver, CO  
 
Rapped with a 70 just fine Nov 10, 2015
Sherie Lou
Washington, DC
 
Sherie Lou   Washington, DC
 
Don't miss the rap rings above Flying Scorpion. Rapped with a 70m rope and had to untie and downclimb the last bit (about 3-4 feet?) Feb 6, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
 
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
 
Great pitch. Relatively hard for EPC 5.10a rating

My 70m mammut infinity did NOT reach the ground. Belayer climbed up with knotted end in the belay device so i could lower to around the first bolt, then solo down climb from there.

Knot your rope! Feb 15, 2016
There are some conflicting comments, so I'll add my $0.02 so folks can make their own decision.

When my 99# girlfriend rappelled on a 70m rope, she made it to the 4th class ledge about 4' off the deck. The guys that climbed it after us had a 70m rope, but only made it to the first bolt on rappel.

YMMV. And so may your rope length. Nov 29, 2016
M HawkMan
  5.10b
M HawkMan  
  5.10b
EXCELLENT ROUTE. This route is as good as any .10 you can find in the Potrero.

It is very sustained. I would call it closer to .10b because of how continuous all the moves are for a long way.

Our Maxim 70m worked fine although if you have a Mammut 70m you won't make it. for some reason they are a bit shorter, or maybe our maxim is longer than 70m.

If you are concerned, just rap climbers right to the anchors for Flying Scorpions just beside the ledge with all the plants on it and break it into 2 rappels. Dec 18, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.10b PG13
Rob Albert  
  5.10b PG13
Lots of conflicting opinions on rope length on this one - seems to be a manufacturer difference. For example, my Sterling made it to the little boulder, no downclimbing needed. However, the people after us with a brand new Mammut, only made it to the first bolt. As everyone else here says, be very careful, knot your ends, and you'll be fine. All that said, do not miss this route - it is long, varied, and spectacular! Closer to 10b, as most people say, and the bolts are well spaced. Nov 26, 2017
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
 
Jon Jones   Penticton, B.C.
 
Definitely a rope stretcher on a 70m rope, so make sure that you have good knots in the end of your rope as most of these posts suggest. Different manufacturers cut their ropes differently and some are a couple of metres longer than specified when new. (However, I once climbed this route on a BRAND NEW "70"m Maxim Pinnacle and ended up between the 2nd and 3rd bolt when I lowered off. Turns out the "70" m rope was actually only 64.5 m!! Even reputable rope companies sometimes make mistakes.) Note that with use and with age, a rope gets shorter due to re-programming and off-gassing of the nylon, sometimes by as much as 2-3 m for a 60 m rope. Feb 20, 2018

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