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Routes in Lower Virgin

50/50 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Fistful of Pesos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Cop, No Donut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cabeza de Chivo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Quixote S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Balota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Conception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mexican Vacation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mexico in Flames S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monarca S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre Mugre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sancho Panza S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Selam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shroud, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thonga de T S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tilting at Windmills S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trouble at the Border S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Rick Ross, Dane Bass
Page Views: 712 total · 6/month
Shared By: kyber on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Nate Ball

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41 Opinions

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Description

several varitions makes this climb either 10+ or 11b. there is a left leaning crack on the right side that is (according to Dane) not supposed to be used for the 11b and this also goes for the very easy to reach ramp on the left side. all of these features are within an arms reach so its whatever you feel up for at the time. basically stay on the face for the 11b rating and exit right or left for a 10+ rating.

Location

right of flying scorpion

Protection

10 - 12 bolts

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
After leading this route twice (over different years), I've been unable to do it "direct". I set off with VERY good intentions to go direct but yet still find the natural flow, slightly right. I may starts off directly over the bolts but to me, in the end, I flow to the right. Mar 1, 2016
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Fun Route! Climb it twice, do the direct version first, follow the bolts straight up, and then the slightly right version using the crack. Both are worth it and very fun! Little crimpy moves and techie feet on this one! Jan 10, 2012
David Kozak
  5.11a
David Kozak  
  5.11a
Fun route. Rating depends on how directly you climb it. Going left or right lowers the rating quite a bit from what's sated in the Bass guide. Mar 18, 2010

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