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Routes in Lower Virgin

50/50 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Fistful of Pesos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Cop, No Donut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cabeza de Chivo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Quixote S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Balota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Conception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mexican Vacation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mexico in Flames S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monarca S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre Mugre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sancho Panza S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Selam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shroud, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thonga de T S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tilting at Windmills S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trouble at the Border S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson – 1989
Page Views: 5,616 total · 45/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

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Description

This mega-classic starts right of a small bush, goes up the face to a high first bolt and then heads left to the right facing corner. Climb the corner, pull the roof, and head up and right to the anchors on the ledge. The crux is near the roof.

Location

At the obvious right-facing dihedral with the roof.

Protection

Bolts with anchors.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11d
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11d
Amazing route but some of the bolts are pretty rusty. Feb 7, 2009
David Kozak
  5.11c
David Kozak  
  5.11c
This and El Bolota are perhaps the finest routes in Virgin Canyon. Mar 18, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I really liked this route, it is a trad feeling sport route, if that makes any sense. I should have onsighted it. Instead, I didn't. Getting suckered into the jugs over the arete will screw you. It was one of the finer routes I did in EPC. See spot run. Jan 14, 2011
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Oh Zeke, the jugs on the arete is exactly where you wanna be, I thought. Jan 15, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I thought so too, Hank, the trouble being if you go too far up the jugs (well-chalked, btw), you have a much harder transition back into the dihedral before the roof. Then again, I didn't onsight the rig. Jan 19, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
AWH Sum! Great corner climb with some gnarly stemming. Its tempting to pull onto the arete but force yourself to climb up the blank corner because it is so worth it. Well Bolted and beautiful climbing! Enjoy pulling the roof on hero holds after blank foot work most of the way up. A Classic in my book!! Jan 10, 2012
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
 
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
 
I had the opposite problem of Zeke. I thought the jugs over the roof were part of the next route and "off limits" (so many EPC routes are squeeze jobs) and so also failed to onsight the rig. :( I think you definitely need to use them somewhat but just maybe don't get suckered into them too far? I could see that making the transition near the crux hard as well.

Good news is bolts are shiny and new (as as the routes in the surrounding area (El Balota, Mexico in Flames, etc) so go get on it! (if there's not a line...) Jan 6, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.11b
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.11b
Very cool route even though it wasn't inspiring watching people climb it. You can see people wander so much, pull over left of the arete to rediculous clipping stances. Imo, jugs left hand with a foot in the corner, stemming works well here, it is not as slippery as everyone makes it seem. Very cool crux near the top but, much easier than .11d. Jan 28, 2017
This route was one of the most awkward things I have ever done. I was just constantly getting bent over and mushing myself around to hang on, through the very strange movements. Maybe I did it wrong. I think Balota was a lot better. Mar 15, 2018
Eric Kuenstner
Los Angeles, CA
 
Eric Kuenstner   Los Angeles, CA
 
There appears to be a bat living inside the tunnel that unites the two thank god jugs above the roof. I nearly popped off when I heard it!

I also agree that it has a trad-like feel to it, and that there are many ways to execute the crux. My 5’1” shorty wife did it in a completely different way than me. May 5, 2018

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