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Routes in Lower Virgin

50/50 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Fistful of Pesos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Cop, No Donut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cabeza de Chivo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Quixote S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Balota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Conception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mexican Vacation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mexico in Flames S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monarca S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre Mugre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sancho Panza S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Selam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shroud, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thonga de T S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tilting at Windmills S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trouble at the Border S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Paco Medina
Page Views: 282 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Jan 8, 2015
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

A beautiful slab that gets harder the higher you go. Crux comes in the last 30 feet with an interesting sequence. Magic Ed's guidebook has this listed as 5.12a but we felt it to be a little harder.

Location

This is just left of Selam.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

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Johnny Duke
Bend, OR
Johnny Duke   Bend, OR
If I'm not mistaken, the anchor you are referring to is actually Thonga de T. Cabeza keeps going up past them another 30 feet or so to another set of anchors. Personally I would recommend using the Thonga anchors as the extra climbing didn't add much and our 70 meter wasn't even close to making it back down. The belayer had to climb to the first bolt and then let the rope pull through and both down-climb together. Alternatively you can also lower to the Thonga anchors and set up your rap there. Dec 6, 2017
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Mendoza, Argentina
 
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra   Mendoza, Argentina  
 
I think I got the length from Magic Ed's guidebook. I just remember doing it with a 70m and being able to get to the ground with a some feet to spare. I'll readjust it to 110' to be more accurate. Jan 6, 2017
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
 
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
 
Fun bouldery/sequency crux. Not sure why it is listed as 140 feet, a 70 gets you down with plenty to spare, a 60 probably works too (tie knots) especially if your belayer can climb up on the first ledge or two. Jan 6, 2017