Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Paco Medina
Page Views: 400 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Jan 8, 2015
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A beautiful slab that gets harder the higher you go. Crux comes in the last 30 feet with an interesting sequence. Magic Ed's guidebook has this listed as 5.12a but we felt it to be a little harder.

Location

This is just left of Selam.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

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John Hovell
San Francisco, California
 
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
 
Fun bouldery/sequency crux. Not sure why it is listed as 140 feet, a 70 gets you down with plenty to spare, a 60 probably works too (tie knots) especially if your belayer can climb up on the first ledge or two. Jan 6, 2017
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Mendoza, Argentina & Mexico…
  5.12b
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra   Mendoza, Argentina & Mexico…  
  5.12b
I think I got the length from Magic Ed's guidebook. I just remember doing it with a 70m and being able to get to the ground with a some feet to spare. I'll readjust it to 110' to be more accurate. Jan 6, 2017
Johnny Duke
Bend, OR
Johnny Duke   Bend, OR
If I'm not mistaken, the anchor you are referring to is actually Thonga de T. Cabeza keeps going up past them another 30 feet or so to another set of anchors. Personally I would recommend using the Thonga anchors as the extra climbing didn't add much and our 70 meter wasn't even close to making it back down. The belayer had to climb to the first bolt and then let the rope pull through and both down-climb together. Alternatively you can also lower to the Thonga anchors and set up your rap there. Dec 6, 2017