Type: Sport, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Alex Catlin
Page Views: 1,138 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ted Baker on Feb 15, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start up the 10- arete left of the Flying Scorpion face routes, head up onto the fuzzy looking 11d sustained face with diagonaling groves and finish the last 12- pitch over the roof with a slight runout to the anchors.

4 pitches-10a,11a,11d,12a/b

Protection

10 bolts with optional yellow alien for the finish

Photos

The 3rd pitch variation was apparently used to bolt the true left line. (Info per Dane's book). We climbed is 2/10/15 and really enjoyed it. Never secure in 100 feet with exciting clips, but fun thin climbing. Felt harder than 4th. Would love to hear more input. Also, do first 2 pitches as one to avoid hanging belay, okay stances at other belays. This route was fun and should be climbed more. Feb 13, 2015
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
p1 is a forgettable dirty corner
p2 very sharp 11a arete/face
p3 Stellar, sustained, long. Endurance made this pitch feel more challenging than the 4th
p4 Stellar, intermittent good rest stances, long. Crux might be the last couple moves with the pump factor. Dec 16, 2016