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Routes in Lower Virgin

50/50 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Fistful of Pesos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Cop, No Donut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cabeza de Chivo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Quixote S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Balota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Conception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mexican Vacation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mexico in Flames S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monarca S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre Mugre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sancho Panza S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Selam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shroud, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thonga de T S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tilting at Windmills S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trouble at the Border S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Alex Catlin
Page Views: 911 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ted Baker on Feb 15, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the 10- arete left of the Flying Scorpion face routes, head up onto the fuzzy looking 11d sustained face with diagonaling groves and finish the last 12- pitch over the roof with a slight runout to the anchors.

4 pitches-10a,11a,11d,12a/b

Protection

10 bolts with optional yellow alien for the finish

Photos

TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.12a
p1 is a forgettable dirty corner
p2 very sharp 11a arete/face
p3 Stellar, sustained, long. Endurance made this pitch feel more challenging than the 4th
p4 Stellar, intermittent good rest stances, long. Crux might be the last couple moves with the pump factor. Dec 16, 2016
The 3rd pitch variation was apparently used to bolt the true left line. (Info per Dane's book). We climbed is 2/10/15 and really enjoyed it. Never secure in 100 feet with exciting clips, but fun thin climbing. Felt harder than 4th. Would love to hear more input. Also, do first 2 pitches as one to avoid hanging belay, okay stances at other belays. This route was fun and should be climbed more. Feb 13, 2015