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Elevation: 2,473 ft 754 m
GPS: 25.95007, -100.47797
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 116,238 total · 538/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 15, 2008
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description Suggest change

The rock quality and routes in this canyon tend to be very good (especially on the north-facing side). This canyon gets midday and afternoon shade in the winter which is a nice respite from the sun when it gets hot. In the summertime, when the sun is higher in the sky, this canyon is still pleasant in the early mornings and evenings. As you walk up the canyon from the aqueduct, these areas on the left wall are listed in the order that you encounter them:

The Surf Board
Cat Wall
Lower Virgin
Upper Virgin
Flamingo
Ripped Wall
Beyond Ripped Wall

Then as you descend the canyon from the top the areas on the opposite wall listed in order of encounter are:

La Segunda Plancha / The Second Flatiron
Suicide Overlook
La Primera Plancha / The First Flatiron

As you reach the bottom of the canyon and are almost at the swimming pools, turn left and the Wonder Wall begins by the BBQ grills (you are now technically out of the Virgin Canyon on the north facing side of the North wall of Virgin Canyon).

Getting There Suggest change

As you walk into the park this is the first major canyon on your right, just past the swimming pools.

94 Total Climbs

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Location: Virgin Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 145
Gracias Mi Amor
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 247
31-foot smurf
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 193
Penitente
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 424
Selam
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 233
Flying Scorpion
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 237
La Flakita
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 84
Milk Cow Blues
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 256
Mugre Mugre
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 146
Blind Faith
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 253
Mexico in Flames
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 281
Don Quixote
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 218
El Balota
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 55
The Shroud
Sport 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
The Ripped Wall
Sport 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 117
Cabeza de Chivo
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gracias Mi Amor Upper Virgin
 145
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
31-foot smurf Cat Wall
 247
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Penitente Cat Wall
 193
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Selam Lower Virgin
 424
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flying Scorpion Lower Virgin
 233
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
La Flakita Cat Wall
 237
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Milk Cow Blues Upper Virgin
 84
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mugre Mugre Lower Virgin
 256
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Blind Faith Cat Wall
 146
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Mexico in Flames Lower Virgin
 253
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Don Quixote Lower Virgin
 281
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
El Balota Lower Virgin
 218
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Shroud Lower Virgin
 55
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
The Ripped Wall Ripped Wall
 17
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Cabeza de Chivo Lower Virgin
 117
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Virgin Canyon »

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