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Areas in Virgin Canyon

Beyond Ripped Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Cat Wall 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Flamingo Wall 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
La Primera Plancha / The First Flatiron 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
La Segunda Plancha / The Second Flatiron 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lower Virgin 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Ripped Wall 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Suicide Overlook 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Surf Board, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Upper Virgin 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Description

The rock quality and routes in this canyon tend to be very good (especially on the north-facing side). This canyon gets midday and afternoon shade in the winter which is a nice respite from the sun when it gets hot. In the summertime, when the sun is higher in the sky, this canyon is still pleasant in the early mornings and evenings. As you walk up the canyon from the aqueduct, these areas on the left wall are listed in the order that you encounter them:

The Surf Board
Cat Wall
Lower Virgin
Upper Virgin
Flamingo
Ripped Wall
Beyond Ripped Wall

Then as you descend the canyon from the top the areas on the opposite wall listed in order of encounter are:

La Segunda Plancha / The Second Flatiron
Suicide Overlook
La Primera Plancha / The First Flatiron

As you reach the bottom of the canyon and are almost at the swimming pools, turn left and the Wonder Wall begins by the BBQ grills (you are now technically out of the Virgin Canyon on the north facing side of the North wall of Virgin Canyon).

Getting There

As you walk into the park this is the first major canyon on your right, just past the swimming pools.

77 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Gracias Mi Amor
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
The Cat's Meow
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Scaredy Cat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
31-foot smurf
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 104
Selam
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Penitente
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Milk Cow Blues
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 32
Mugre
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
La Flakita
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 93
Mugre Mugre
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Blind Faith
Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Bad Cop, No Donut
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 56
Mexico in Flames
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 129
Don Quixote
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 60
El Balota
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gracias Mi Amor Upper Virgin
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Cat's Meow Cat Wall
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scaredy Cat Cat Wall
 53
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
31-foot smurf Cat Wall
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Selam Lower Virgin
 104
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Penitente Cat Wall
 58
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Milk Cow Blues Upper Virgin
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mugre Lower Virgin
 32
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
La Flakita Cat Wall
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mugre Mugre Lower Virgin
 93
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Blind Faith Cat Wall
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Bad Cop, No Donut Lower Virgin
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mexico in Flames Lower Virgin
 56
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Don Quixote Lower Virgin
 129
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
El Balota Lower Virgin
 60
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Virgin Canyon »

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