Elevation: 2,589 ft
GPS: 25.95, -100.479 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 71,695 total · 485/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 15, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

Description

The rock quality and routes in this canyon tend to be very good (especially on the north-facing side). This canyon gets midday and afternoon shade in the winter which is a nice respite from the sun when it gets hot. In the summertime, when the sun is higher in the sky, this canyon is still pleasant in the early mornings and evenings. As you walk up the canyon from the aqueduct, these areas on the left wall are listed in the order that you encounter them:

The Surf Board
Cat Wall
Lower Virgin
Upper Virgin
Flamingo
Ripped Wall
Beyond Ripped Wall

Then as you descend the canyon from the top the areas on the opposite wall listed in order of encounter are:

La Segunda Plancha / The Second Flatiron
Suicide Overlook
La Primera Plancha / The First Flatiron

As you reach the bottom of the canyon and are almost at the swimming pools, turn left and the Wonder Wall begins by the BBQ grills (you are now technically out of the Virgin Canyon on the north facing side of the North wall of Virgin Canyon).

Getting There

As you walk into the park this is the first major canyon on your right, just past the swimming pools.

79 Total Climbs

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Location: Virgin Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 60
Gracias Mi Amor
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
The Cat's Meow
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 74
Scaredy Cat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 124
31-foot smurf
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 188
Selam
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 87
Penitente
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Flying Scorpion
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 81
La Flakita
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 40
Milk Cow Blues
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 144
Mugre Mugre
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 63
Blind Faith
Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Bad Cop, No Donut
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 108
Mexico in Flames
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 179
Don Quixote
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 105
El Balota
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gracias Mi Amor Upper Virgin
 60
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Cat's Meow Cat Wall
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scaredy Cat Cat Wall
 74
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
31-foot smurf Cat Wall
 124
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Selam Lower Virgin
 188
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Penitente Cat Wall
 87
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Flying Scorpion Lower Virgin
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
La Flakita Cat Wall
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Milk Cow Blues Upper Virgin
 40
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mugre Mugre Lower Virgin
 144
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Blind Faith Cat Wall
 63
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Bad Cop, No Donut Lower Virgin
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mexico in Flames Lower Virgin
 108
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Don Quixote Lower Virgin
 179
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
El Balota Lower Virgin
 105
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Virgin Canyon »

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