Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson – 1989
Page Views: 694 total · 5/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The first bolt is about 10-12 meters off the deck (!), but this section can be protected somewhat by slinging natural thread-throughs (making it ~PG-13 instead of R). Start at the base of Don Quixote but head up left of the dihedral to a small ledge and then climbed clean face left of Don Quixote.

Location

Just left of Don Quixote.

Protection

Bolts and slings.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
6 bolts, long runner Feb 16, 2016
Izzy K.
Jackson, WY
 
Izzy K.   Jackson, WY
 
Don't worry, the run out to the first bolt is very easy.

I traversed right and ended up finishing on Don Quixote (just after the roof). I recommend trying this for some fun exposure. Since the anchors to DQ are far right, the follower had to clean the route on top.

Didn't get to go back and finish Sancho Panza, but it looks great. Jun 23, 2016
Johnathan C
Missouri
 
Johnathan C   Missouri
 
The run-out on the bottom isn't much to sweat over, but I felt the run-out at the top was sketchy, at least for new 5.11 climbers. It's jug city after the last bolt to the anchors, but it's quite run-out, so it's pretty freaky when you're pumped out. My friend used a sling to feel safer at this section. I think that would be the way to go. Oct 15, 2016
To second what everyone else said: the last bit to the anchors is much easier than the rest of the route. Probably 5.8 or less. However, if you bring a 2'/60cm runner, you can thread a hueco quite a bit above the last bolt. That makes it feel not run out at all!

Also, regarding the start, it is also less than 5.8 to get to the bolt. However... Getting to the ledge is like 5.2. Then you have to leave the ledge a make a few easy moves up. Even though they are 5.4 or 5.5, that is a LONG way off the deck. I used a runner around the short and fat tree on the ledge, then clipped a draw to that runner to reduce drag.

I guess the point is, this route has "normal" things you'd do on a trad route. Just make sure you're head is turned on and you have more than the exact # of draws you need and it's fine. Nov 29, 2016
Allen Lee
Branson, MO
 
Allen Lee   Branson, MO
 
Fun movement. A little spicy run out or two and maybe a spinner on the third or fourth bolt. Dec 15, 2016