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Routes in Lower Virgin

50/50 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A Fistful of Pesos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Cop, No Donut S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cabeza de Chivo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Quixote S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Balota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Immaculate Conception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mexican Vacation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mexico in Flames S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Monarca S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mugre Mugre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Resurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sancho Panza S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Selam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shroud, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverfish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thonga de T S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tilting at Windmills S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trouble at the Border S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson – 1989
Page Views: 586 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

The first bolt is about 10-12 meters off the deck (!), but this section can be protected somewhat by slinging natural thread-throughs (making it ~PG-13 instead of R). Start at the base of Don Quixote but head up left of the dihedral to a small ledge and then climbed clean face left of Don Quixote.

Location

Just left of Don Quixote.

Protection

Bolts and slings.

Photos

Allen Lee
Branson, MO
 
Allen Lee   Branson, MO
 
Fun movement. A little spicy run out or two and maybe a spinner on the third or fourth bolt. Dec 15, 2016
To second what everyone else said: the last bit to the anchors is much easier than the rest of the route. Probably 5.8 or less. However, if you bring a 2'/60cm runner, you can thread a hueco quite a bit above the last bolt. That makes it feel not run out at all!

Also, regarding the start, it is also less than 5.8 to get to the bolt. However... Getting to the ledge is like 5.2. Then you have to leave the ledge a make a few easy moves up. Even though they are 5.4 or 5.5, that is a LONG way off the deck. I used a runner around the short and fat tree on the ledge, then clipped a draw to that runner to reduce drag.

I guess the point is, this route has "normal" things you'd do on a trad route. Just make sure you're head is turned on and you have more than the exact # of draws you need and it's fine. Nov 29, 2016
Johnathan C
Missouri
 
Johnathan C   Missouri
 
The run-out on the bottom isn't much to sweat over, but I felt the run-out at the top was sketchy, at least for new 5.11 climbers. It's jug city after the last bolt to the anchors, but it's quite run-out, so it's pretty freaky when you're pumped out. My friend used a sling to feel safer at this section. I think that would be the way to go. Oct 15, 2016
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
 
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
 
Don't worry, the run out to the first bolt is very easy.

I traversed right and ended up finishing on Don Quixote (just after the roof). I recommend trying this for some fun exposure. Since the anchors to DQ are far right, the follower had to clean the route on top.

Didn't get to go back and finish Sancho Panza, but it looks great. Jun 23, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
6 bolts, long runner Feb 16, 2016