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5.10-, Sport, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 200 votes
FA: Alex Caitlin and David Dangerfield
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Virgin Canyon > Lower Virgin


a good long warmup route with nice movements on easy holds..


the small little area right before don q.


lots of draws, probably 14 to 16. also make sure you have a 70 with a knot in the end and can down climb the first bolt or just take two ropes. another option would be to rappel to the anchors of flying scorpion.

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Anna on Selam
[Hide Photo] Anna on Selam
watch for the loose rock near the anchor
[Hide Photo] watch for the loose rock near the anchor

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[Hide Comment] A tricky 10a. Note: a 70 meter rope will NOT get you back to the ground! Jan 7, 2009
Sam Brotherton
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] a surprisingly good climb - sustained, thoughtful 10a moves to the top. it's totally worth the two raps it takes to get down. Feb 15, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] I love this climb. All 140 feet! you need two ropes to get down or lower to the the anchors on Flying Scorpian. A lot of great moves on this climb. Edges, crimps,'s all there! Nov 20, 2011
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Rapped with a 70 just fine Nov 10, 2015
Sherie Lou
Washington, DC
[Hide Comment] Don't miss the rap rings above Flying Scorpion. Rapped with a 70m rope and had to untie and downclimb the last bit (about 3-4 feet?) Feb 6, 2016
Black Hawk, CO
[Hide Comment] Great pitch. Relatively hard for EPC 5.10a rating

My 70m mammut infinity did NOT reach the ground. Belayer climbed up with knotted end in the belay device so i could lower to around the first bolt, then solo down climb from there.

Knot your rope! Feb 15, 2016
[Hide Comment] There are some conflicting comments, so I'll add my $0.02 so folks can make their own decision.

When my 99# girlfriend rappelled on a 70m rope, she made it to the 4th class ledge about 4' off the deck. The guys that climbed it after us had a 70m rope, but only made it to the first bolt on rappel.

YMMV. And so may your rope length. Nov 29, 2016
M HawkMan
[Hide Comment] EXCELLENT ROUTE. This route is as good as any .10 you can find in the Potrero.

It is very sustained. I would call it closer to .10b because of how continuous all the moves are for a long way.

Our Maxim 70m worked fine although if you have a Mammut 70m you won't make it. for some reason they are a bit shorter, or maybe our maxim is longer than 70m.

If you are concerned, just rap climbers right to the anchors for Flying Scorpions just beside the ledge with all the plants on it and break it into 2 rappels. Dec 18, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] Lots of conflicting opinions on rope length on this one - seems to be a manufacturer difference. For example, my Sterling made it to the little boulder, no downclimbing needed. However, the people after us with a brand new Mammut, only made it to the first bolt. As everyone else here says, be very careful, knot your ends, and you'll be fine. All that said, do not miss this route - it is long, varied, and spectacular! Closer to 10b, as most people say, and the bolts are well spaced. Nov 26, 2017
Jon Jones
Penticton, B.C.
[Hide Comment] Definitely a rope stretcher on a 70m rope, so make sure that you have good knots in the end of your rope as most of these posts suggest. Different manufacturers cut their ropes differently and some are a couple of metres longer than specified when new. (However, I once climbed this route on a BRAND NEW "70"m Maxim Pinnacle and ended up between the 2nd and 3rd bolt when I lowered off. Turns out the "70" m rope was actually only 64.5 m!! Even reputable rope companies sometimes make mistakes.) Note that with use and with age, a rope gets shorter due to re-programming and off-gassing of the nylon, sometimes by as much as 2-3 m for a 60 m rope. Feb 20, 2018
Westminster, CO
[Hide Comment] Super fun route! I really enjoyed getting on it. I had a new 70 m rope and had to down-climb about 8-10 feet (easy to down climb, just could easily be a disaster if you don't have a knot on the belayer's end). Dec 31, 2018
Cam Smith
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] awesome route. full value. make sure belayer ties a knot in the end of the rope. lower to a ledge system near the base. Apr 1, 2019
Andy Genereux
Calgary, AB
[Hide Comment] Great pitch Quite sustained and seeing some polishing on the holds, but a sandbag at 10a, I’ve climbed a lot of routes in the area and this route several times over the years. It’s 37 m to the ground very tight on a 70m rope to Lowe make sure you have a knot at the end. Feb 10, 2020
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
[Hide Comment] Our 70m made it to the ground with rope stretch and belayer climbing up the little ledge at the bottom Feb 20, 2020