Type: TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Mike Roybal, 1974
Page Views: 1,351 total · 8/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Oct 4, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Start with some slick and thin bouldery moves out onto the opening face and then up to a nose overhang with lots of feature, some of which is sharp and slick, to a hangerless bolt (that is to the left about half of the way up). Continue up a very thin and technical face with no pro to the top. For an easier yet fun variation (5.10), start on Wisconsin and move right after about 15' around and up on jugs past the nose, and then continue to the right to gain a crack and arete for some protection and some easier climbing. A top rope is recommended.

This route is supposedly "the state's first 5.12" (source: climbing.com/news/utopian-v…).


This route is located directly to the east (right) of Wisconsin.


Top Rope from a two bolt anchor.


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