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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 529 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Middle Mother is the middle of the 3 steep cracks toward the right section of the cliff. A good 5.10 for this area.

Climb up to a horn/flake. The tricky finger crack section above is the crux, and is well protected with cams. The wall steepens even more, but the crack widens in places so you can get a few hand jam rests, and the options for footholds improve. Stay strong for the last pumpy finish on big holds.

Location

The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. This is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.

Protection

1 set cams from fingers to 3"; nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor at the top, or sling blocks with long runners/cordelette, or tie off dying trees.

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