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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Steve Schum and Len Margolin, 1970
Page Views: 137 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Climb the finger crack crux off the ground. This is 5.9 to 5.10+ depending on finger size and reach. Being taller with fat fingers probably helps. You can get finger size cams in, but don't fall, because without a perfect belay you'll land awkwardly on jagged rocks. Easy 5.4 stemming leads to the top. Please try not to touch or stand on or near the petroglyph. If you're not sure you can climb this without impacting the archaeology, don't climb it.

Ethics Rant

I recommend people avoid this climb, because (1) it's a painful 15' boulder problem followed by much easier non-descript climbing so it's boring for a 5.10 climber; and (2) if you're not a 5.10 climber, if you don't take a short ankle-twisting fall on the sharp rocks, you'll probably leave shoe rubber on the rock art- which is exactly the type of behavior that gets entire areas closed because non-climbers/land managers (in this case- LA National Lab) just don't understand how important it is to climb every crack there is. (That being said- the LA Mountaineers unofficial toprope group always seems to have a rope set on it when they visit the Y and that organization has been climbing here longer than anyone else...)


Just to the right of the cave on the north side of the 'Y', right of Wisconsin and the Nose, find a finger crack right next to a petroglyph.


1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 1".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees... which pisses me off because it will encourage traffic and possibly lead to damage to the rock art.