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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Porter
Page Views: 50 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Dec 3, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

I hate this climb. The hand jams pulling the roof were so insecure and scar-leaving when I flailed on this route shortly after I started climbing at White Rock. After I figured out how to do it, it's still no fun. Since the rock quality is ok, it's worth doing once so that you know you don't need to do it again, I suppose.

This climb goes up the obvious crack on the right side of the Ramp feature. Scramble up blocks to the roof. Two moves of impossible-to-rate, hand-size dependent jams turn the roof, or lieback it. 4th class crack in a slab to the top.

The route description or rating or something is transposed with "the Ramp" in Rock Climbing: New Mexico.

Protection

Cams to 3" (try not to place them where you need to jam at the crux). Anchor off a juniper at the top, or build an anchor with gear.

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