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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Jim Porter and Len Margolin, 1970
Page Views: 108 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start just left of Open Book. Step up and traverse left to the main triple overhang crack. A direct start in the thin crack is harder and discouraged because it is very close to the 'snake' petroglyph. Turn the first overhang, which is pretty easy, to a good rest stance. The second overhang- an A shaped slot- is harder and usually involves making an insecure mantle or big reach to a wide crack to the left, both with poor feet. Overhang #3 is just before the topout. It's not as hard as the 2nd one, with exit jugs, but be sure to rest before starting it, to keep from being too pumped at the finishing mantle.

Location

This climb is the next crack left of Open Book (the obvious dihedral) on the north side.

Protection

1 set cams to 4", wired nuts. A cordelette or long piece of webbing is useful for the anchor.

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