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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Len Margolin & Jim Porter, 1970
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: Minesh Bacrania on Apr 19, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Stem up past the wide crack, traverse left to the alcove, and then straight up to the top. Two cruxes, one at the start, one getting out onto the face at the end of the traverse.

Location

Start on the big block to the right side of the little cave that's just east of Open Book.

Protection

Two-hanger anchor. Single rack to BD #2. A BD #4 might work to protect the wide crack at the bottom (blind placement), but something bigger might be better.

Photos

Bezoar
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9-
Bezoar   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9-
My favourite local route for training folks. Good trad lessons, lots of drag to emphesize sling length, diversity of crack width for practicing placement, solid anchors to back-up a new leader on belay. Atalaya SAR uses this route to train technical litter raises, stranded climber pick-offs, etc.

Figure out the first move & the rest is cake. Jun 28, 2010