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Elevation: 6,265 ft 1,910 m
GPS: 35.86752, -106.20477
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 29, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

The "Y" is a narrow portion of lower Los Alamos Canyon with 45' climbs on both sides and an intermittent stream flowing through it. It is one of the better choices for basalt climbing in Los Alamos/White Rock in the summer, because the canyon is relatively peaceful and cool, though the south-facing wall is in the sun most of the day. You can seek out sun or shade as you desire- but most of the climbs are on the north (south-facing) side. The "Y" is more novice-friendly than many other areas in White Rock, but still contains enough interesting routes for those of all abilities.

It's a popular toproping area, though many of the climbs can be led. You'll need to bring gear to set anchors on most climbs.

What's that smell? That peaceful stream is effluent from the waste-treatment plant for Los Alamos (the town, not the lab). This area occasionally flash-floods, also.

There are many petroglyphs in this area. Please don't climb on them or right next to them, and certainly don't damage them or do other dumb things. Access has been closed in too many other areas in the southwest US for climbing too close to petroglyphs. There's 300+ other climbs in White Rock.  Some people appreciate these cultural resources and hikers sometimes come in this canyon just to see the rock carvings.

Getting There Suggest change

The "Y" is just south of NM 502, a little bit east of the intersection of NM 502 and NM 4 (where the road forks to go to White Rock or Los Alamos). From the junction of 502 and 4, get going eastbound, and park on the shoulder where the first guardrail on the south side comes to an end (if you drop down past a water tank, you've gone way too far). Hike south 1 minute to the clifftop. The downclimb is 3rd class and is found by heading west along the cliff's edge.

27 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Y, The Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Y, The

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Twin Cracks
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Little Roof
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Inside Dihedral
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Lizard Man
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Open Book
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Triple Overhang
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Boy Scout (aka Broadway)
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Herb's Roof
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Less-Hard Start
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Apeshit (aka Cavemantle)
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 16
Wisconsin
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
The Notch
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
 8
The Nose
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twin Cracks Y - S Side
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Little Roof Y - S Side
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Inside Dihedral Y - N Side
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Lizard Man Y - N Side
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Open Book Y - N Side
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Triple Overhang Y - N Side
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) Y - N Side
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Herb's Roof Y - N Side
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Less-Hard Start Y - N Side
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Apeshit (aka Cavemantle) Y - S Side
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Wisconsin Y - N Side
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
The Notch Y - N Side
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Nose Y - N Side
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X TR
More Classic Climbs in Y, The »

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