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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 67 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Choose from various starts: Boy Scout (5.8/5.9), or Inside Dihedral (5.8/5.9), to exit the cave. Soon you'll reach a big ledge that ramps up to the left (Broadway ledge).
The Notch goes straight up the finger crack from the middle of Broadway ledge. You can get just enough pro in to keep it reasonable, especially a bigger cam under an overlap midway up. Committing to the start (off Broadway ledge) may be the toughest part mentally, or keeping your composure to punch it to the top on the pocketed section where the crack pinches down.

A tougher lead than most other 5.10s at the Y.

Location

The Notch takes a finish up the 2nd steep crack to the right of Open Book. See .

Protection

1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts.
Save some gear for an anchor, or use static rope off dying trees.

Photos

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