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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Ice, 60 ft
FA: Osborne and Barto
Page Views: 821 total · 7/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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This is a gross ice flow that is formed from contaminated water from LA canyon and the sewage plant that is the stream that is located at The "Y". Other than that the climbing is good. Watch out for tampons and other trash. I recommend keeping your eyes and mouth closed as it sprays from your swing. Also observe the odor and try to leave your expensive trick outer wear in your pack at the top. Take a shower when you get home and sterilize your gear. The crux is getting the smell off of everything that was used on the route. Worth doing once just to experience the yuk and climb.


This is the obvious flow at the far east end of the crag.


Ice screws and runners. Stoppers and cams for the anchors. Rap in to climb out.


- No Photos -
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
I looked for this last weekend. There's no water at all flowing through the Y.
I've been told that, ever since the construction of a new treatment plant further upcanyon, all the flow that's released is probably sinking into the alluvuim before it even reaches this far down. Hence, it doesn't seem likely that this ice will ever form up again.

//Edit 2014: There was a substantial amount of water running down the canyon this winter. I viewed the flow in about mid-February, and it was spotty. But at least it's getting some buildup again. And the water that does flow is reportedly much higher quality than before. Jan 21, 2011
Eddy Daly
Albuquerque, NM
Eddy Daly   Albuquerque, NM
OK...that is just retarded! The source of the falls is effluent from a waste water treatment facility located upstream in Bayo Canyon. One may recall that the ice climbs on the southwest side of Cascade Creek near Durango are also fed by effluent. There wouldn't be any tampons unless people drop them there when they discover they're in White Rock and not Ouray. I disagree with the bomb fact it's pretty fucking good for ice in White Rock. I can't help but feel the good poster dropped a bit of waste on me. Take some Midol, lube the applicator and remember where you're climbing. Feb 11, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
Seems like you might wish to consider retiring your gear after getting that stuff on it! Yuck! Jan 30, 2008