Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Porter Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA: Larry Campbell- Spring 1971 FFA: Len Margolin, Steve Schum, and Mike Roybal- Summer 1971
Page Views: 1,217 total, 10/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Wisconsin is one of the cleanest and longest face climbs at the Y, and is the classic 5.10 at this crag. It starts just right of the cave.

Begin with a traverse to the right, then up easy cracks to a slot. Make an awkward mantle out of this slot onto a non-relaxing ledge. Next comes the crux of the route, where you reach the cracks whose outline resembles the state of Wisconsin. Good pro is available but might be considered a bit tricky. Beta for the crux is to reach out right and lieback to a high reach. Small gear can be placed atop the 'Wisconsin' flake, then run it out to the top on easier cracks.

Location

This climb is on the north side, starting just to the right of the obvious cave. It heads nearly straight up a slightly overhanging crack system with the cracks 2/3 of the way up describing a shape that loosely resembles like the state of Wisconsin.

Protection

Nuts + cams to 2".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees.

Photos

- No Photos -
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Yipes! My dad threw up a bunch of topropes on these cliffs in the mid 70's, it was my first rock climbing experience. I don't think I managed to make it up this route back then, but I came back 20 years later to finally climb it (on toprope). The basalt was always so slippery and hot in the summer! May 23, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10c PG13
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10c PG13
Correction: This climb has seen an inadvertent, toprope-turned-freesolo ascent by Mark Schraad, when an extraordinarily inane student in the LA Mountaineers' course took apart the anchor before checking to see if anybody was climbing up. Needless to say, it was the last time Mr. Schraad volunteered to teach with the Mountaineers. May 23, 2008
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a memorable route.
How can the FFA occur before the FA? May 23, 2008