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Routes in Y - North Side

Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Mother T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Notch, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Book T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Original Open Book T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Porter Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rigid Deffacator T WI3
Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970
Page Views: 73 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Left Mother is the leftmost of the 3 good crack climbs in the Mothers area of the Y.
Climb choss to a solid block/horn, angle left to a wedged block with good hand jams on either side. The steep crux is from here to the top and follows the leftmost crack, which is just a little larger than fingers, through an overhanging face. Fortunately, the face is highly featured with small horizontal ledges and pockets.

This climb is a good one for a trad leader near their limit, as the pro is good, the crux is short, and the fall is clean.


The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. It is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.


Rack up to a 2" cam; finger size cams are especially useful, nuts are good too. Don't bring micro nuts or microcams.
Save some stuff to build an anchor at the top, although there's a good block that you can sling with a long runner, or tie off trees with static line- always an iffy idea since many are dying.


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