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Routes in Main Crag

"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
"Steeple" Face TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
College Rock Traverse V3 6A
Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exersize Left to the Reader TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flunked Again TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantel V3 6A
Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: [Henry Barber?]
Page Views: 3,410 total, 30/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Jul 19, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

My Mind Is A Blank is definitely the proudest climb on the main cliff of CR.

This route takes on the proud, scantly featured face beneath a looming roof. Climb good edges and crimp in tiny slots to static or dyno (dyno may be easier as the edges get polished) to the massive horizontal. From there use small pockets and slopers to position your self under the roof. Get your feet high and gun for the good jug at the lip, then crank to a small slopey slot and finish. If you were to lead the route, this is the point where you would hug the tree trunk and scamper to safety with heavy breathing and a palpitating heart.

NOTE: As of early October 2008, the partially fallen tree that had been used as a TR anchor has become a more fully fallen tree. Other trees and/or clean gear anchoring possibilities remain farther back from the cliff's edge, but the ease of double slinging the tree and toproping your heart out is now a thing of the past.

Location

This is dead center on the cliff, ten paces to the right of the Militant routes.

Protection

Most sane folks toprope this route. Trees and clean gear placements can be located and equalized atop the cliff.

The route CAN and HAS been led, however, and one look at the thing will show you that this is one of the coolest headpoints in the area, and I hope to climb it in that style at some point. A lead of this route, whether placing on lead or pink, warrants an R rating for sure, since your top piece would likely be a small cam under the roof and, in the event of a fall from the top, the system would likely only accelerate your impact into the face. If you know anyone who has led this route, you may feel compelled to kiss his or her feet.

Photos

Graham O.  
 
Awesome climb! IMO, the lower deadpoint is actually the crux. Aug 22, 2016
ben324 Solon
  5.11c/d PG13
ben324 Solon  
  5.11c/d PG13
Got ya. That's for sure. It's one of those routes that gets easier as you learn the moves though. The moves through that pocket are definitively the most technical on the route. Mar 5, 2015
Eric8
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
I think he just means the low crux that most people deadpoint is not actually the crux. Feb 11, 2015
ben324 Solon
  5.11c/d PG13
ben324 Solon  
  5.11c/d PG13
It is lacking in pro up high, but I disagree that it's R rated. Maybe PG-13. In the description, it says that the last pro before pulling the roof would send you into the rock, but if you place a cam below the corner out right, you'll fall a bit farther, but you won't whip into the face.

Jcomeau, which deadpoint are you referring to? The beta I used was all static. Sep 15, 2014
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I led this last night. It's really not that bad of a lead. Gear where you need it, and if you're worried about the deadpoint, the last move could be a real stopper. Apr 18, 2014
Alex C  
Definitely a cool little climb that is surprisingly pumpy for its length. I did headpoint this a few years ago and didn't think the fall would have been so bad. I was more worried about blowing the start, so I used a bouldering mat at the base. May 17, 2010