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College Rock Chimney Buttress
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Main Crag
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"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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"Steeple" Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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All Holds Barred TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blank Traverse, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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College Rock Traverse 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V3 6A |
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Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exersize Left to the Reader T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fill in The Blank TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flunked Again TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grunge Gully Direct TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jocks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mal-triculation TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mantel V3 6A |
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Mike Doonesbury Returns TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pop Test T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Preppies TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Road Trip T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seven Sisters TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Techno-Dweeb TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wasted T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | who knows? |
| Page Views: | 1,659 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
On the variably overhanging buttress, just outside the chimney, climb up the buttress on juggy holds, and a prominent ledge about 1/3rd of the way up, until you get to the awkward mantel move just under the incut ledge below the top. Make the blind reach to the last jug and the top. You can perform a contrived heel-hook move to top out. Recently (week of 8/02/07) a loose block broke/fell off, making the move off the prominent ledge noticably harder, replacing a full, two-hand jug with a smaller, single-hand, sloping jug.
Location
A little less than halfway down the crag southward (just after the 5.11 roof face), you'll the first prominent right-facing buttress. behind this buttress is the College Rock Chimney route AKA "Spring Vacation", 5.0.
Protection
Some people will climb this from the Send Money anchor, though this invites a backward swing into the Send Money face, and requires transferring from the buttress to the face with a hand traverse to the "Send Money" anchor for lowering.
If your'e more risk averse than that, set a TR with gear in cracks within the chimney fissure, and one small tree above the face.
If your'e more risk averse than that, set a TR with gear in cracks within the chimney fissure, and one small tree above the face.
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