College Rock Chimney Buttress
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Main Crag
|"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|"Steeple" Face TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|College Rock Traverse V3 6A|
|Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Exersize Left to the Reader TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Flunked Again TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mantel V3 6A|
|Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Type:||TR, 30 ft|
|Page Views:||638 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer|
DescriptionOn the variably overhanging buttress, just outside the chimney, climb up the buttress on juggy holds, and a prominent ledge about 1/3rd of the way up, until you get to the awkward mantel move just under the incut ledge below the top. Make the blind reach to the last jug and the top. You can perform a contrived heel-hook move to top out. Recently (week of 8/02/07) a loose block broke/fell off, making the move off the prominent ledge noticably harder, replacing a full, two-hand jug with a smaller, single-hand, sloping jug.
LocationA little less than halfway down the crag southward (just after the 5.11 roof face), you'll the first prominent right-facing buttress. behind this buttress is the College Rock Chimney route AKA "Spring Vacation", 5.0.
ProtectionSome people will climb this from the Send Money anchor, though this invites a backward swing into the Send Money face, and requires transferring from the buttress to the face with a hand traverse to the "Send Money" anchor for lowering.
If your'e more risk averse than that, set a TR with gear in cracks within the chimney fissure, and one small tree above the face.
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