|GPS:||42.195, -71.5 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Robbovius on Jan 13, 2007|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle|
The grades are somewhat stiff (sandbagged by the oldtime FA artists perhaps? ;-) ), and many a first-time CR visitor has been shut down on climbs that grade-wise, they had expected to cruise. Climbing at College Rock can be characterised as being technical and sequency, with a lot of satisfaction to be had overcoming the many tricky moves.
The College Rock girdle traverse follows the entire 200 feet of the crag, without a break, the difficulty ranging from easy, juggy hauling, to difficult crimpy desperation. Some nice, easy, warmup semi-highballing (10-15 feet, 5.4-5.6) is avaialble at the south end. Several of the routes are leadable, though the crag is pretty much a top-roping haven.
Anchors are either slung from trees, mostly rather far back from the cliff face, or built from gear. If you've got a choice, choose gear, as many of the pines are noticably worn and polished around the bark at the base from decades of slinging.
There is bouldering here, in various spots around the crag are at least 6 or 7 boulders with routes to V7.
College tends to stay a bit damp after rain, and after a heavy day or two of rain, will show noticable seepage and runoff from the various cracks. Also, on humid days the rock can become slick from condensation, since the rock tends to stay cool in it's woodsy locale.
It lies about 45 minutes WSW of Boston. The Boston Marathon start nearby in Hopkinton center, about 3.5 miles away on rte 135.
College Rock is located at the head of a popular mountain biking trail system, and the parking lot can easily fill right up on nice weekend days.
From Route 135, come to Hopkinton center, and take Route 85 south at the lights, going uphill. Follow Route 85 through the lights past Hopkinton Middle School and High School, straight through the next flashing yellow, and after Cornell's Pub (ain't never been there, they tell me it's nice), look for College Street on the left across from the red barn. Follow College St. as above.
Classic Climbing Routes at College Rock
Days w Precip