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Routes in Main Crag

"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
"Steeple" Face TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
College Rock Traverse V3 6A
Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exersize Left to the Reader TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flunked Again TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantel V3 6A
Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: some time in the mid 1970s
Page Views: 1,405 total, 11/month
Shared By: Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Close to the corner of the buttress and the face (the fissrue and buttress are off route, so cut out that cheating!), climb up the face on positive hands and a few small but positive feet to the bottom of the right-leaning crack. Climb up the crack to the incut ledge. Wedge yourself into the incut ledge to make the blind reach for the good jug on the rounded face above. Did you lead it? Congratulate yourself, and have a beer.

Location

About 2/3rds of the way southward down the crag, this route is identified by an obvious right-slanting crack that starts about halfway up the slightly-overhanging face, in between a jagged-right-facing butress to the left, and another (of the several at CR) right-facing corner and roof to the right. The climb is topped by an incut ledge with a "tongue" sticking out. The top-out (seldom done) is up the rounded face above the incut ledge.

Protection

Set TR anchor using either gear in the crack at the rear of the ledge above, or from tired looking trees. Don't worry, they'll hold. The climb is very leadable, though you'll be almost halfway up before there's any gear on the face.

Photos

Ryan Web
  5.9
Ryan Web  
  5.9
Led this yesterday on three pieces, and it felt really safe. Really fun but short climb. Nov 16, 2014
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I have led this. I placed 6 pieces. May 21, 2013
This can be lead with small cams and a nut or two. Be careful of the loose rock bits in the crack. Nov 19, 2011