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Routes in Main Crag

"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
"Steeple" Face TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
College Rock Traverse V3 6A
Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exersize Left to the Reader TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flunked Again TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantel V3 6A
Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: in the dim recesses of the past. Or, the mid 1970s
Page Views: 929 total, 7/month
Shared By: Robbovius on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Start with a strenuous layback on the large flake and small feet, up to the ledge. (first crux) pass thru the left end of the ledge where the roof and ledge meet (a bit tricky, a sort-of 2nd crux)and then go straight up the blocky face to the top.

There are a couple easier variations to the start.

1. Start under the "Militant Right" corner, climb up to the obvious hand crack. traverse right, back to the ledge on bomber hands and small feet. 5.8

2. Start in the "It's Late September" dihedral on the right. 5.7

3. Start on the arete, just outside the "It's Late September" dihedral. Using small feet and somewhat un-positive hands, dyno/deadpoint to a jug. struggle up to the ledge.

Location

1/3rd of the way down from the north end is a very large, left-slanting ledge under the left end of the prominent roof. The route goes up the flake on the face of the ledge, thru the left end of the "cave" and up the blocky face above.

Protection

Use top rope anchors, as usual can be either built from gear, or slung from trees on the ledges at the top of the crag. This route is one of the most leadable, though there really isn't much in the way of gear until you're past the ledge/cave and on the upper face. The upper face goes at about 5.6+.

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