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Routes in Main Crag

"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
"Steeple" Face TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
College Rock Traverse V3 6A
Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exersize Left to the Reader TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flunked Again TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantel V3 6A
Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 32 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 977 total, 8/month
Shared By: Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is easyish at the bottom, and then becomes technical and sequency at the crux. There are several variations.

1. start left of middle and climb up the obvious ledges and lips. using smallish and/or awkward holds, balance and reach right for the flake, and step right. Climb easy horizontal handcracks and small feet to the top.

2. start left of middle and begin as 1. Pass flake on the left using small crimps, reach horizontal cracks as before.

3. starting in the middle of the face, climb up the obvious ledges and lips to the blank face. Using various small crimps and awkward feet, pass the right hand and of the flake to the horizontal cracks. Don't bounce a hand from the flake bottom! go straight for the jug! (one 5.9+/5.10- crimp move).

Location

Halfway along College Rock - between the College Rock Chimney Buttress, and the detached monolith "Steeple" - is a flat veritcal face
with several foot ledges, small lips, and toe ledges across it. Towards the top, just left of center, and below the two topmost horizontal hand cracks, is a noticable flake the splits from the face at the flake bottom.

Protection

Set TR anchors from cracks in the face of the wall behind the ledge above the climbs, or from trees 20-30 feet back from the face. You could lead it, if you were daring. There's a protectible crack low, and two more near the top, and nothing in between. So, basically, if you lead it, you're freesoloing up to the top cracks. "The leader must not fall", as they say. Have fun!

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